The ultimate 2 weeks in Albania itinerary (possible without a car!)

Planning a trip to Albania? This detailed itinerary covers what to do with one week, 10 days or 2 weeks in Albania, including the best places to visit, how to get around with or without a car, where to stay, and loads of actually helpful travel tips to navigate this fast-growing Mediterranean hot spot.

If you’ve had Albania’s white sand beaches and epic mountains popping up on your feed for the past few summers, and you finallyyyy decided to book a trip to this up-and-coming slice of the Balkans, you’re in the right place!

After spending a few weeks of solo exploring from the very south to the very north, I experienced the good, the bad and the beautiful chaos of Albania. I visited centuries-old hillside villages, had picture perfect beaches all to myself, and genuinely saw some of the best natural scenery Europe has to offer.

But Albania has more to it than what you see on TikTok and Instagram, and this complex country certainly isn’t the smoothest place to travel through. The bus system is messy, the roads are wild, tourism is increasing exponentially which means rapidly-rising prices and pressured infrastructure, and some parts are not great for solo female travellers.

That’s where this guide comes in!

I’ve combined my honest opinions, top recommendations and practical travel tips into a comprehensive two week Albania travel itinerary to help you maximise your time and money.

You’ll get to see the best of the Albanian Riviera (and avoid the worst of it…), step back in time while shopping in authentic bazaars, and hike through insane landscapes that are somehow still fairly under the radar. This blueprint includes everything I wish I knew before setting off on my Albania adventure, and you can follow this route with or without your own set of wheels.

So here’s my ultimate two week itinerary for Albania without a car, with helpful tips and advice about the best things to see, do, eat and more.

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Quick summary: The perfect Albania itinerary

How to get around Albania

Getting around Albania is a bit of a mission, it’s one of only a handful of European countries without a functioning railway network so you either need to rent a car, use public buses/furgons, or book transfers or taxis.

🚗 Albania by car: For confident drivers only

Great for freedom, not great for stress levels! Albania’s driving culture is interesting to say the least, private car ownership was banned until the fall of communism which has completely shaped the driving experience you get today. The number of cars on the road exploded from 7500 in 1991 to more than 800,000 today 😱

Roads away from the main highway can be in pretty terrible condition, the licensing system is corrupt so many drivers have never sat a single test, and local drivers tend to have a reputation for making their own rules. It’s common to see cars overtake on blind corners, drivers running give ways and stop signs without a second glance, and unpaved mountain roads with sheer drops without a barrier.

If you’re confident behind the wheel and don’t mind defensive driving, getting a car does give you the opportunity to go where you want when you want. Stick to the road rules (obviously), be prepared for the unexpected, and get comprehensive travel insurance that covers rental car excess.

Rental car prices are based on demand, from €25-40 per day if you book in advance, to more than €100 per day for last minute bookings in tourist hot spots. Check current rental car prices here >>

🚫 Don’t want to drive in Albania? I got you!

After my tour bus was damaged by a hit-and-run driver during my whirlwind first Albania visit, leaving our poor bus driver and tour guide to deal with corrupt cops for a couple of hours just to get the report for insurance, I wasn’t super keen to try my luck on these unpredictable roads and decided to explore car-free instead.

There wasn’t a huge amount of up to date info online about travelling Albania without a car so I did a tonne of research on location to find different ways to get from A to B, and here’s what I found…

🚌 Albania by bus

Albania’s bus network is functional but messy, it connects all the major tourist spots like the Riviera beach towns, inland UNESCO villages, Tirana, and Shkodër in the north.

The annoying thing is that the buses are run by loads of different operators, and there’s no central system to show you every bus route in the country. Schedules change seasonally, timetables online aren’t always up to date, some bus companies have online ticket purchases but many are cash-only with ticket offices in the destination.

The closest things Albania has to a central system are the websites GjirafaTravel and AlbaniaBus, where you can buy tickets online for some (but not all) buses on most popular routes.

In the Riviera I also used Butrinti Travel & Tours, they seem to keep their timetable up to date here for buses between Tirana & the Riviera towns, and then from Sarandë to the Blue Eye and Gjirokastër. When you click ‘book online’ through that link it just takes you through to the Gjirafa Travel website, but you can also contact them on WhatsApp if you have any questions.

If you are travelling during a busy period then it would be best to book tickets online first, but then go to the ticket office or bus station when you arrive in that city to ensure the details are all correct.

If there’s no bus showing up on the websites, there might be a local bus operator or a furgon that services the route you need. The best way to find these would be to ask your accommodation provider, hotel staff or B&B hosts will be able to point you in the right direction. I’ve also mentioned the specific buses I took to get between the spots in the itinerary below.

Some important things to know about buses in Albania:

• Bus timetables are more of a guideline, buses might leave early if they are full or late if they aren’t
• Ticketing is mostly done manually, with cash payments and no electronic passenger records. This means that even if you’ve bought a ticket online a seat might not be reserved for you, so there’s no guarantee your seat won’t be given away if you’re not there early. Get to the bus stop 20 minutes before your scheduled departure to be safe.
• Take morning buses where possible, so you have back up options later in the day in case of any mishaps
• There’s luggage space below or at the back of most buses, but keep any valuables in a backpack or small bag that you have with you
• Bus standards vary, the buses I took up the Riviera coast were fine but the Sarandë to Gjirokastër bus and the Tirana to Shkodër bus had no air con which was nottttt ideal 🥵 I didn’t have any issues with buses breaking down but I’ve heard this happens quite often.
• Most drivers don’t speak English
• Sometimes the driver needs a bathroom stop or smoke break and he’ll just pull over and hop out of the bus, he might say something in Albanian to explain what he’s doing but if you don’t speak Albanian (which I assume you don’t if you’re reading this) then you’ll probably get confused, look around the bus to see if anyone knows what’s going on, then a nice young local will probably explain what’s happening. Just don’t venture too far from the bus because if the driver comes back and he’s ready to go, he definitely won’t count the passengers to make sure everyone’s on before he leaves.
• In Tirana, international buses and regional buses have different stations. The bus station for regional buses (to Shkodër, the Riviera etc.) is the South and North Bus Terminal.

🚐 Furgons (minibuses) in Albania

Furgons are minibuses that service smaller towns and less popular routes, mostly used by locals these days as the major tourist routes have multiple bus operators.

They’re cheap and cheerful, often very cramped, and they run when they’re full rather than to a specific schedule. If you’re wanting to go beyond the main spots and get to rural areas, small villages or deep into the mountains, a furgon might be your best option.

Here are some things to know about furgons:

• Luggage space is limited, not ideal for suitcases or big backpacks
• They are very cramped, the furgon I took in the Albanian Alps had full seats and then three local guys sitting on plastic boxes in the minibus ‘aisle’ haha
• They run when they’re full, so you could be waiting anywhere from a few minutes to half a day
• They don’t have scheduled stops in between destinations but they are usually able to stop anywhere on the way, just show the driver where you need to be dropped off or they might drive right past
• Tickets are cash only and you pay the driver
• Rural and mountain roads can be very windy, pothole-y and slightly terrifying, but some of the views are insane!

🚕 Taxis in Albania

You’ll find taxis in major cities, but they aren’t as cheap as you might expect. Official taxis have yellow number plates and are meant to use meters but many don’t, especially in the Riviera or at bus stations, and they’ll try offer you an inflated flat rate instead.

There’s no Uber or Bolt in Albania, there are some local taxi apps (Clust, VrapOn and Patoko were the ones I tried) but they were hit and miss when I tried them, taking aaages to find a ride or not letting me set up my account properly. The best way to find a good taxi is to just search online for taxis in that city/area, read reviews to make sure they’re trustworthy and using the meter, and contact them through WhatsApp.

Taxi prices in the Riviera more than doubled from 2023 to 2024 and they’ll likely increase this year too, everything I read online said a taxi from Sarandë to Ksamil should be €10-15 one way but every taxi I contacted had a flat rate of €25-30. A 10 minute taxi from my hotel in Sarandë to the port was €10, so those short rides could add up quickly.

What to budget for this Albania travel itinerary

Albania’s prices vary drastically between regions, with the north offering the best value while the Riviera can cost the same as Croatia and Greece in times of high demand.

💡 Important note: These prices are from September 2024, but locals told me costs have been increasing 50-100% every year in tourist hot spots like Sarandë and Ksamil. This is partly due to the Albanian currency (lek) quickly gaining strength against the Euro, and partly due to high demand/low supply so hotels, restaurants etc. can put their prices up and people will still pay them.

Consider this a rough guide and check current rates for your dates.

🛌🏼 Accommodation

• Basic backpacker hostel dorms from €10-15, boutique hostels from €20-25, cheap homestays from €20-40 but the good ones get booked in advance
• Outside of the Riviera, you’ll find 2-3* hotels or simple apartments from €30-50 per night, nicer 4* accomm from €50-80 and boutique luxury hotels from €100-150 upwards
• Riviera accommodation is much more expensive, expect to pay €50-70 for a basic 2-3* hotel or apartment, €70-100 for a mid-range hotel or apartment, €160-200 upwards for the 5* resorts. Similar prices to what you’d see in Greece and Croatia for the same standard.
• Accommodation standards are well below more developed Mediterranean destinations, and you get what you pay for. Even mid-range hotels might not have air con, decent WiFi, duvets/comforters (sheets only) or elevator access. Use booking.com‘s filters and tick the amenities you need.
• In the Riviera I’d recommend booking accommodation with a kitchen or kitchenette so you can avoid expensive and sub-par restaurants. I stayed at White Residence Apartments in Sarandë and Hotel Golden in Ksamil, both were perfect!

🚃 Transport

• Local buses are cheap, €3-6 for short rides (1-2 hours) and €8-15 for longer trips
• Taxis are pricey, they are meant to use the meter but many don’t, especially in the Riviera. The flat rate from between Sarandë and Ksamil was €25-30 one way in September 2024 (might cheaper out of season, might be more expensive in peak summer).
• Car rental prices vary depending on demand, from €25 per day in low demand areas/seasons, to €100+ per day if you book last minute in summer. One way fees are very expensive if you’re driving from south to north or vice versa.

🍖 Food

• Also varies in the Riviera vs. rest of the country
• Rest of the country: €7-12 main meals, €3-5 casual takeaways
• Riviera: €10-25 main meals, €5-10 for cheap dining

💶 Other costs

• ATM fees are wild, the most expensive I’ve seen in Europe! Even the bank-owned ATMs (which usually have the lowest fees) charge €5-8 for a withdrawal 😲 so take Euros with you (many hotels, restaurants, shops accept Euro) or try and manage your money so you only withdraw once or twice
• Drink costs vary widely, in less touristy places you can find €1.50 local beer/wine and €3 cocktails, in the Riviera expect to pay €3-5 for cheap beer/wine, €5-8 for happy hour cocktails, or €10-20 for non-happy hour
• Activities in the Ksamil and Sarandë are similar cost to other Med destinations, €70-90 for a shared half day boat tour, €15-40 for a pair of sunbeds, €70 for a 30 min jet ski hire. Prices in Himarë are a bit cheaper!

Safety in Albania

Albania has very low violent crime rates, and petty theft is less common here than in many European countries. With tourism growth it does mean opportunists are trying to find ways to benefit, so be cautious of scammy taxis, only use bank ATMs as they’re less likely to have skimming devices attached, and keep your belongings secure when you’re out and about.

The biggest safety concerns in Albania are infrastructure-related, like dodgy roads, a struggling healthcare system and lack of safety regulations. Driving can be crazy as I already mentioned, healthcare facilities outside of major cities are limited and underfunded, and typical health and safety requirements we’d expect to see, like seatbelts in furgons, smoke alarms in apartments and life jackets on boat tours, might not be enforced.

Get comprehensive travel insurance to cover you in case of any issues, book well-reviewed hotels and tours, and pay a bit more for safer journeys or accommodation where you feel more comfortable.

Solo female travel in Albania

If you’re a solo female traveller in Albania, safety (and our perception of safety) varies significantly by region.

Tirana feels like any European capital, progressive and modern, no dress code to follow, lots of women out and about.

Smaller cities, towns and villages inland (Shkodër, Berat, Gjirokastër etc.) are more conservative and traditional, seeing local women alone without their kids or husbands is more uncommon than in the big smoke of Tirana, so solo gals stand out.

This might result in people looking at you, smiling at you or saying hello, but this is usually a sign of curiosity rather than anything malicious. I felt completely safe in every inland destination I visited. No strict dress code unless you’re visiting a religious site, but it’s respectful to dress modestly.

The Riviera is another story though, particularly Sarandë and Ksamil, where some local men see the influx of tourists as an opportunity to meet women who are less conservative than women in their own community.

Combine that with patriarchal attitudes that don’t necessarily value women’s boundaries and personal space, and maybe misinterpretations of what is flirting and what’s just being friendly, and you’ve got the makings of some very uncomfortable situations.

I experienced the persistent hassling first hand, I wasn’t hurt physically but I had a few different experiences where guys just would nottttt leave me alone, including a taxi driver who messaged me for days after he dropped me off, a man who followed me around the supermarket trying to talk to me when I had my headphones on, and a waiter in an empty restaurant who sat at my table (uninvited, and didn’t leave when I said I was fine by myself) and asked me personal questions for 45 minutes while I finished my meal. Extremely creepy.

You can read more about these situations and key takeaways in my solo female travel Albania guide as well as my guide to the Albanian Riviera, but the quick summary is:

• These experiences were all in Sarandë and Ksamil, the party hubs, I felt completely fine in Himarë and everywhere else in Albania
• I do think they were all examples of local men not understanding boundaries, not respecting women, and thinking foreign women are easy targets, rather than actually wanting to hurt anyone. Not an excuse at all because these behaviours are absolutely not okay, but I think these came down to lack of awareness or ignorance around how to treat women, rather than actually being physically dangerous situations.
• Based on my experience, I would recommend that solo female travellers either skip Sarandë and Ksamil altogether (stay in Himarë for your Riviera adventures) or visit with caution, don’t tell anyone you’re solo, don’t go to restaurants and bars alone, only use reputable taxis, and check TripAdvisor reviews for hotels and restaurants specifically from solo travellers to ensure you see any negative experiences from previous guests.

Expectations vs. reality

I’m going to be super honest with you: the Albania on social media is not the full reality, and there are a few things to know before you go so you’re not disappointed when you get there.

The natural landscapes are unreal, that’s absolutely true, with insane water clarity in the Riviera and epic mountains in the north.

But behind the viral photos there’s also a huge trash problem, disgustingly crowded beaches, and dilution of authentic culture to allow for rapid development for tourism. This isn’t sustainable for local communities, and it’s not enjoyable for visitors.

Here’s how to see the best of Albania during your two weeks here, and ensure that your trip isn’t contributing to the overtourism problem:

• Skip the overcrowded beaches of Sarandë and Ksamil, head to Himarë or another small Riviera town for a more laidback experience
• Make an effort to learn about local culture and history
• Visit outside of peak season (July/August) if possible
• Learn basic Albanian phrases to show respect
• Book accommodation in advance to get the best value
• Be patient with transport delays and hiccups
• Support authentic restaurants, retailers and tour operators instead of tourist traps
• Expect to spend more than you might have planned, because the whole ‘cheapest country in Europe’ headlines are no longer true

The ultimate two week itinerary for Albania without a car

Who is this Albania itinerary for?

This two week Albania itinerary is perfect for anyone wanting to see the top highlights from the north to the south, with a mix of city breaks, outdoorsy adventures and traditional experiences.

The whole route can be followed with public transport, but I’ve added some optional side quests at the end which are easy if you’ve got a car but are a little trickier to navigate with buses.

This is for medium-paced travellers, enough time to see the best bits without being rushed off your feet, but you could focus on either just the north or the south for a slower trip or you could squeeze this into a 10 day Albania itinerary if you’re in more of a rush.

How this Albania itinerary works

I don’t like telling you exactly where to go because everyone has different travel priorities, so instead I’ve listed the key places to visit, how to get there, how long to stay to make it worth it, the best things to do and some recommendations of where to stay.

Take note of the places that sound like they’re up your alley, set aside the minimum number of days each one requires, and then at the end you’ll know if you have any extra time to add on one or two other stops or just extend your time to travel at a slower pace. Easy!

I’ve written the itinerary from south to north because that’s the way I did it, but you can obviously go the other way or can start in Tirana and go north first, then zip through Tirana again to get down to the Riviera.

Sarandë

How to get to Sarandë: If you’re flying into Corfu in Greece then it’s just a 30-45 minute fast ferry (or two hour ferry for a cheaper option) to Sarandë, or if you’re flying into Tirana you can catch a 4.5 hour bus or do the 3.5 hour drive with a rental car.

Minimum stay: For the Riviera in total I’d recommend at least 4-5 days, you could choose one base and do day trips or split your time between any of the first five destinations on this itinerary. You could definitely spend more time here if you’re keen for some dedicated downtime!

What Sarandë is good for: A convenient base for exploring the south, tourist-friendly services and facilities, lots of restaurant/tour/hotel options, nightlife

About Sarandë

Sarandë is the main hub of southern Albania and the gateway to the Albanian Riviera. It’s the most convenient spot if you’re wanting to hop to Gjirokastër, the Blue Eye and other tourist spots, and there are loads of accommodation options for all different budgets, boat trips and guided tours, and things like ATMs, supermarkets and healthcare.

Unfortunately rapid development and ever-increasing tourist numbers are taking their toll on this port town though, with crowded beaches all summer, overflowing trash and half-finished construction projects practically every single block. Stay here for the benefits of an easy launch pad, just don’t expect an undiscovered or charming destination!

Things to do in Sarandë

P.S. Most of these can be done in any of the Riviera destinations

• Book a coastal boat trip! Every Riviera town has boat trip options, Sarandë has tours ranging from chilled out sunset sails to pirate ship booze cruises and loads in between.
• Visit the Blue Eye, one of Albania’s most famous natural wonders. From Sarandë you can catch a bus through Butrinti Tours & Travel (cheaper but only a couple of options), a shuttle through KMG (more expensive, more frequent), or book this top-rated motorbike tour.
• Take a day trip to the UNESCO-listed Butrint National Park to see ancient ruins, book a guided tour or catch the bus
• Catch sunset from Lëkurësi Castle
• Enjoy fresh seafood at Hera Restaurant, Marini, or Taverna del Mare
• Day trip to Corfu and explore the Old Town
• Take a private wine, raki and food tour
• Go white water rafting on the Vjosa River

Where to stay in Sarandë

Budget:

• Hostel Hasta La Vista (basic hostel with dorms and private rooms, 8.5/10 on booking.com from 610+ reviews)
• Elti Apartment (cheap and cosy hillside apartment, 9.1/10 from 350+ reviews)
• Vila Floban (simple apartments with a swimming pool, 9.2/10 from 320+ reviews)

Mid-range:

• White Residence Luxury Apartments (my top pick, I extended my stay for another week because it was so great! Spacious, ocean view balcony, full kitchen, bed with duvet, great air con. 9.5/10 from 290+ reviews)
• Guesthouse Villa Joanna&Mattheo (top-rated guesthouse with a lush garden, 9.2/10 from 180+ reviews)
• Enia’s Room (clean and comfortable rooms close to the bus station, 8.8/10 from 340+ reviews)
• Isabela Apartments (well-equipped apartment with a balcony, 9.2/10 from 320+ reviews)

Luxury:

• La Fe Boutique Hotel (elegant 4* boutique hotel newly opened in 2024, 9.7/10 from 60+ reviews)
• The Collector Hotel Boutique (super stylish 4* also opened in 2024, 9.7/10 from 15+ reviews)
• San Angelo Luxury Resort (5* adults-only resort, 8.1/10 from 440+ reviews)

Ksamil

How to get to Ksamil: 30 mins from Sarandë by bus (€1.50) or taxi (€25-30 in summer, maybe cheaper in quieter months)

Minimum stay: 4-5 days in the Riviera in total

What it’s good for: Beach clubs, nightlife

About Ksamil

This party town has been heralded as ‘the Maldives of Europe’ which is an absolute stretch, but the water is blue as blue can be, and there are loads of beach clubs serving up frozen cocktails and bangers all day and night.

It’s still finding its place as a tourist destination, with a very busy but quite short summer season before everything closes for 8-9 months of the year, so prices in those few months shoot up up up to bring in money for the year. If you’re looking for a typical Albania beach party weekend then this is your best bet, but if you want authenticity, good value and charm, it’s not the one.

Things to do in Ksamil

• Beach hopping! All beaches in the town are private and you’ll pay €15-30 for a pair of sun loungers (more for the ones closer to the shore), the water is beautiful but it can get murky from sooo many people swimming, plus jet skis hooning around not far from shore. Boat trips will get you away from the big crowds but you’ll still share the bays with a few other boats.
• Water sports like jet skiing, kayaking, stand up paddleboarding
• Try the big inflatable obstacle course
• Hit the beach clubs, some of the best-rated options are Augusti, Ohana, Uma and Lounge Bar Bermuda
• Try local mussels on a mussel sailing tour

Where to stay in Ksamil

Budget:

• Vila Dura (affordable studios and apartments, 9.1/10 on booking.com from 130+ reviews)
• Arjana & Nelaj Apartment (simple apartments in the centre of Ksamil, 9.3/10 from 240+ reviews)
• Twins Hotel (basic hotel with great reviews, 9.4/10 from 180+)

Mid-range:

• Hotel Golden (loved my stay here, spacious room with kitchenette, decent air con, a short walk from the beaches. 8.7/10 from 45+ reviews)
• Hotel Vathi (family-owned hotel with great hospitality, 9.7/10 from 40+ reviews)
• Lake View Rooms (modern rooms with balconies, 9.5/10 from 110+ reviews)
• Villa Earta & Leo (simple apartments with friendly hosts, 9.3/10 from 110+ reviews)

Luxury:

• Lago Calmo Villa (top-rated two bedroom apartment, 9.7/10 from 15+ reviews)
• Serein Villas (new Bali-esque villa with space for 7 people, 9.5/10 from 12 reviews)
• Area Hotel (nice 4* hotel with great facilities, 9.6/10 from 420+ reviews)

Gjirokastër

How to get to Gjirokastër: 1 hour bus from Sarandë, you can book online through Gjirafa Travel or Butrinti Tours

Minimum stay: Doable as a day trip but I’d recommend staying overnight to experience the bar without hoards of tourists

What it’s good for: Traditional architecture, shopping for local crafts, authentic charm

About Gjirokastër

This UNESCO World Heritage Site is the best example of a traditional Albanian village in the southern part of the country, an easy and popular day trip from the coastal towns.

Grey stone buildings are stacked beneath the 12th century fortress, the Old Bazaar is full of local artisans selling homewares and textiles, and there’s even a museum inside a Cold War tunnel. The food and drink scene is impressive too!

Things to do in Gjirokastër

• Climb up to the castle for epic views
• Pick out a souvenir in the Old Bazaar
• Or make your own creation to take home with a wood crafting class
• Take a walking tour through the bazaar to learn about the city’s historical significance
• Visit restored Ottoman-era mansions like Skenduli House and Zekate House
• Hike to the Ali Pasha Bridge, the remains of a 19th century aqueduct
• Take a tour through the Cold War Museum
• Learn about local traditions and customs at the Ethnographic Museum
• Try raki cocktails at Hangover Cocktail Bar
• Go horseback riding through fields of wildflowers in the rural area just past Gjirokastër

Where to stay in Gjirokastër

Budget:

• Friends’ Guesthouse & Hostel (cheap and cheerful hostel with dorms and private rooms, 9.3/10 from 680+ reviews)
• Cico Hostel (family-owned hostel much-loved by backpackers, 9.2/10 from 200+ reviews)
• MiziriGuestHouse (super cheap private rooms in a traditional guesthouse, 8.8/10 from 560+ reviews)

Mid-range:

• Yuri Guest House (nicely-decorated guesthouse with excellent reviews, 9.4/10 from 230+ reviews)
• Guest House Argjiro Castle (comfortable guesthouse near the castle, 9.2/10 from 360+ reviews)
• Hotel Bebej Tradicional (traditional guesthouse with helpful hosts, 9.5/10 from 1430+ reviews)
• Panoramic View Guest House (rustic guesthouse with brilliant views, 9.4/10 from 160+ reviews)

Luxury:

• KERCULLA Resort (boutique resort in the hills with a huge pool and fantastic outlook, 9.4/10 from 800+ reviews)
• Castlefront Villa (beautiful villa that’s traditional on the outside and modern on the inside, 9.8/10 from 50+ reviews)
• N’SOKAK Boutique Hotel (brand new 5* hotel, 9.4/10 from 15+ reviews)

Himarë

How to get to Himarë: 1.5 hour bus from Sarandë, you can book online through Gjirafa Travel or at the Sarandë bus stop ticket office

Minimum stay: 4-5 days in the Riviera

What it’s good for: Ultimate Riviera vibes without the crowds and prices of Sarandë and Ksamil

About Himarë

This seaside town is my favourite spot in southern Albania, offering much better value and a more chilled environment than the popular party hubs.

It’s a bit far from Gjirokastër, Butrint and the Blue Eye for easy day trips if they’re on your itinerary, but you could use Sarandë as a base for two days and then come to Himarë for boat tours, beach hopping, sunset drinks and actual relaxation.

Things to do in Himarë

• A boat tour up to Grama Bay, it’s paradise! I went with Lido Boat Tours and they were brilliant, good tunes, loads of swim stops and enough time at Grama Bay to do the walk up to the viewpoint and then cool off in the water before heading back.
• Walk up to the hillside old town for the best views
• Beach hop along the coast, lots of beaches are accessible by car, some you can walk to from Himarë town, or catch a cab
• Rent a kayak and explore the coastline
• Visit the Porto Palermo fortress
• Enjoy traditional local cuisine
• Sip sunset cocktails at Oniro

Where to stay in Himarë

Budget:

• Mateo (basic dorms and private rooms, 8/10 from 150+ reviews)
• Himarë Hostel (social backpacker hotel, 9/10 from 580+ reviews)

Mid-range:

• Harmonia 2 (stylish, affordable rooms, 9.2/10 from 50+ reviews)
• Villa Rondo (great value hotel in the hills behind Himarë, 8.9/10 from 140+ reviews)
• Faidra (comfortable and well-equipped hotel close to the beach, 9.3/10 from 70+ reviews)
• Guest House Solive (simple guesthouse a short walk from the main centre, 9.1/10 from 310+ reviews)

Luxury:

• Rea Boutique Hotel (lush 5* hotel right on Spille Beach, 9.3/10 from 480+ reviews)
• Rapo’s Resort Hotel (5* resort with a private beach, 8.4/10 from 250+ reviews)

Dhërmi

How to get to Dhërmi: Most buses on the coastal route between Sarandë and Vlore/Tirana will stop in Dhërmi, you can book Sarandë to Dhërmi online at Gjirafa Travel or Albanian Bus, about 2h 40m from Sarandë.

If you’re heading to Dhërmi from Himarë this option doesn’t show on the bus websites for some reason, but it is absolutely possible. You’ll just need to go to one of the ticket offices in Himarë to check the schedule and get a ticket there. This trip will take about an hour.

Minimum stay: 4-5 days in the Riviera

What it’s good for: An elevated Riviera experience

About Dhërmi

Dhërmi is perfect if you want to treat yourself to a touch of luxury, with a decent choice of boutique hotels, upscale restaurants and beach clubs that are much classier than Sarandë and Ksamil.

The old town is high up on the hillside, very aesthetically-pleasing with panoramic views, and then the waterfront’s hotel and eatery offerings are growing faster than you can say ‘I’ll have a spicy margarita please’. Dhërmi’s not ideal for car-free visitors because the bus stop is in the old town and it’s a lot of stairs to get down to the beachfront hotels and clubs, but if you’re travelling light or don’t mind lugging a suitcase then you’ll be all good.

Prices are on par with Greece and Croatia’s beachy hot spots, but the overall standard of accomm/food/nightlife is much higher than the southern Albanian beaches so you’re getting way better value for money.

Things to do in Dhërmi

• I know I’m a broken record, but beach hop! Drymades Beach, Palasa Beach, Gjipe Beach and Jale Beach are all close to Dhërmi.
• Wander the maze of streets in the old town
• See the view from Manastiri i Shen Merise
• Catch sunset from one of the old town restaurants
• Spend a day chilling out at Sarajet, Bacaro or La Siesta beach club

Where to stay in Dhërmi

Mid-range:

• Hotel Imperial (charming family-run hotel in the hillside village so handy for the bus stop, 8.6/10 from 210+ reviews)
• Golden View Residence (good value rooms with a pool and terrace, 9.3/10 from 720+ reviews)
• Eva & Resul Apartments (cheap and cheerful apartments in a quiet village 4km south of Dhërmi, 9.4/10 from 50+ reviews)

Luxury:

• La Brisa Boutique Hotel (5* design hotel with a private beach, 8.8/10 from 420+ reviews)
• Blue Boutique Hotel (4* resort with beautiful pool area, 8.5/10 from 170+ reviews)
• Green Coast Resort & Residences 94 (dreamy three bedroom villa perfect for a group getaway, 9.8/10 from 90+ reviews)

Tirana

How to get to Tirana: Easy bus from the Riviera, about 4.5h from Sarandë, 3h 45m from Himarë or 3h from Dhërmi. Timetable here, try booking online at Gjirafa Travel.

If you’re arriving in Tirana and starting your trip there you can fly into the international airport, or catch a bus from North Macedonia, Kosovo or Montenegro if you’re travelling overland.

Minimum stay: 1-2 days

What it’s good for: Culinary scene, communist history, affordable city break

About Tirana

Albania’s capital might not look like much on the surface, it’s often just a transit point to reach the mountains, villages or coast, but this weird and wonderful city is worth at least a day or two of your itinerary.

Foodies rejoice, the gastronomic scene here is next level and it absolutely took me by surprise. Half the price of the Riviera and twice as good!

If you’re partial to a bit of educational travel then you’ll love it here too, Tirana offers a front row seat in Communism 101 with museums, bunkers and architecture showing visitors what life was like under the rule of dictator Enver Hoxha.

Those times are long over though and Tirana has emerged as a modern, youthful and progressive hub. Prices are similar to other Eastern European capitals like Sofia and Bucharest, cheaper than the Riviera, but nice hotels get expensive during high season.

Things to do in Tirana

• Eat your way around the city. I love Tartuf (cheeeeap truffle dishes), Odas Garden (best service I had in Albania), Salt (delicious fancy sushi) and Artigiano at Vila (pasta 🤌🏼), or join this top-rated city and food tour
• Join a walking tour to learn about communist history
• Take the cable car up Datji mountain
• Visit the Bunk’Art museums
• Hike Gamti Mountain and soak up epic views of Bovilla Lake, or take a quad bike tour to a viewpoint instead
• Day trip to Krujë or Berat (more on these spots in the ‘side quests’ section)
• Or go further with a day trip to Lake Ohrid in North Macedonia, Kosovo, or Montenegro
• Learn to cook traditional Albanian cuisine with a cooking class and food tasting
• Zoom down the Petrela Zipline

Shkodër

How to get to Shkodër: 2 hour bus from Tirana, but there are some important things to know:

• The bus runs frequently and you can see the timetable on Gjirafa Travel but you can’t book online or reserve a seat, you just pay cash to the driver at the bus station
• Regional buses from Tirana, including the bus to Shkodër, leave from the regional bus station which is called ‘South and North Bus Terminal‘
• The bus station is just a carpark with a few ticket offices (often unmanned) and not much info on where to go, you just walk past the buses until you find the one with ‘Shkodër’ in the window
• There are also A LOT of men just standing around waiting for the buses to depart, I genuinely was the only woman in sight for half an hour with maybe 50-60 guys looking at me, which was a bit daunting. If you’re a solo female traveller just be prepared for this.

Minimum stay: 1-2 days

What it’s good for: Bike rides, charming old town, access to the Albanian Alps

About Shkodër

Soulful Shkodër is worlds away from the tacky tourist resorts in the south, with a charming and chilled out old town, traditional cafes and tavernas, and easy access to the mountains. It’s conservative and old-fashioned compared to Tirana, but it feels very safe with lots to see, do and eat.

Things to do in Shkodër

• Rent a bike! Biking is the chosen form of transport here, you’ll even see locals in their 60s and 70s running their daily errands on two wheels, rain or shine.
• Walk up to Rozafa Castle
• See the grand Ebu Bekr mosque
• Visit the Marubi National Museum of Photography
• Pay your respects to the victims of the communist regime at the Site of Witness
• Find a cosy cafe and people-watch down Rruga Kolë Idromeno
• Join a food tour around the old town
• Cycle around Lake Skadar or to Mesi Bridge
• Go to the world’s biggest Venetian mask supplier, the Venice Art Mask Factory⁩⁦

Where to stay in Shkodër

Budget:

• Corner Hostel (my top hostel pick, clean and comfortable dorms with privacy curtains, right opposite the main bus stop, 9/10 from 70+ reviews)
• Bed Station (cheap and cheerful backpacker hostel, 8.7/10 from 250+ reviews)
• Guest House Zadeja (affordable and cosy guesthouse, 9.2/10 from 320+ reviews)
• The Wanderers Hostel (iconic social hostel with lots of organised activities and tours, 9.1/10 from 780+ reviews)

Mid-range:

• Amo’s Hotel (fantastic value 3* hotel, 9.5/10 from 310+ reviews)
• Lille France Apartments (super cheap apartments with lovely hosts, 9.6/10 from 390+ reviews)
• Hotel Ikona (simple and affordable hotel rooms, 9.1/10 from 340+ reviews)
• Hotel Mozart (nice 4* hotel in a great location, 9.4/10 from 170+ reviews)

Luxury:

• Hotel Colosseo & Spa (5* spa resort in the middle of the old town, 8.5/10 from 730+ reviews)
• Villa Teverde (beautiful riverside villas with a private pool a short drive from Shkodër’s town, 9.6/10 from 180+ reviews)
• TRIBUTE Hotel (modern 4* hotel for a great price, 9.4/10 from 120+ reviews)

Albanian Alps & Komani Lake

How to get to the Albanian Alps: I’ll give you two answers, the logistics of the journey and how to book it.

• The journey: Minibus/furgon transfer from Shkodër to the Komani Lake boat terminal, then you’ll either hop on a small wooden boat for the Komani Lake lodges (45m-1.5h depending on the lodge) or you get on the Berisha Ferry to Fierze if you’re heading into the mountains for hiking. From Fierze you’ll get a transfer to your guesthouse.
• How to book it: You can book an organised tour or your Shkodër hostel/hotel or your Komani Lake/Alps guesthouse can organise your transport for you, much easier than trying to navigate the minibus/boat/minibus combo yourself with a language barrier, no cellphone service and everything running on Albanian time.

Minimum stay: You can do a day trip to Komani Lake or the Albanian Alps if you’re pushed for time, but I’d recommend two nights at a Komani Lake lodge to give you enough time to relax, or three nights in the Alps to fit in the good hikes without being rushed

What it’s good for: Magical landscapes, outdoor adventures, traditional hospitality

About the Albanian Alps

I’m embarrassed to say that I didn’t even know Albania had mountains until a few years ago, and now this is one of my favourite corners of Eastern Europe! Spectacular scenery, traditional stone villages, limited access to modern conveniences, absolutely ideal for a mental reset in nature.

Also known as the ‘Accursed Mountains’ (bit dramatic 👀), the Alps are home to Albania’s best hiking trails, particularly the Valbona to Theth day hike. It’s 15-17km long depending on where you start, and takes most travellers between 6-10 hours.

The culture here is totally different to the rest of the country too, the Albanian Highlands have been home to ancient tribes with their own traditions, clothing, folklore and even laws. Book an authentic guesthouse or homestay rather than a big commercial hotel, you’ll get a much more fulfilling experience.

One of the most interesting but terrifying things I learnt about was the ‘blood feuds’, where revenge killings spanned generations under the laws of honour. While blood feuds are obviously illegal now, there are still long-lasting conflicts between families in isolated communities, to the point where some children are home-schooled because leaving the house puts them at risk of retaliation. Heartbreaking and hard to fathom that this still impacts people in the 21st century.

About Komani Lake

Komani Lake (or Lake Koman) is a manmade reservoir that was created by flooding a huge river valley, with steep canyon walls and rugged peaks towering above the icy blue water. It serves as the main transport route between remote mountain villages and Shkodër, and it’s widely recognised as one of the most scenic boat trips on the planet.

You can do a day trip from Shkodër to Komani Lake for a ferry ride and head back, or you can just take the ferry right to Fierze to get into the mountains, but I would highly, highly recommend spending a night or two on the banks of the lake if you have time.

Waking up in a rustic family-owned lodge with these views, spending the day kayaking or sunbathing or reading, making new friends around card games and local wine, this is back-to-basics travel at its absolute finest.

Things to do in the Albanian Alps

• Hike! Valbona to Theth is the main one, but there’s also Theth’s Blue Eye, treks to ancient villages, waterfall walks and more. There are lots of guided hikes to book online, or you can organise them through your hostel or guesthouse.
• Kayak or paddleboard along Komani Lake
• See Lumi i Shalës (Shala River), known as the ‘Thailand of Europe’. It’s reachable only by boat (can be organised by your guesthouse) and you can spend a couple of hours or a full day swimming, paddling, or relaxing on the sunbeds. In shoulder season it’s beyond stunning, but I’ve heard in summer it gets wayyy overcrowded.
• Learn about the fascinating history of families that have lived in the mountains for generations. Many were completely cut off from the country during the communist era, with self-sufficient communities so they could practice their religion and traditions in secret.

Where to stay in the Albanian Alps

Your accommodation location will be determined by your plans. e.g. are you wanting a Komani lodge stay, a Theth village stay or a guesthouse along the hiking trail. These are some of the top-rated places in the region.

Budget:

• Kulla e Sadri Lukes (very cute traditional guesthouse in Theth, 9/10 from 560+ reviews)
• Vellezrit Shkambi (comfortable guesthouse near the Theth-Valbona hike start point, 9.3/10 from 50+ reviews)
• Bujtina Sherifaj (basic but cosy guesthouse in the Valbona National Park, 9.1/10 from 180+ reviews)
• Guesthouse Mountain (small family guesthouse in Valbona, 9.4/10 from 60+ reviews)
• Agroturizem Hotel Vila Franceze (close to the Komani Lake boat terminal, 8.7/10 from 1460+ reviews)

Mid-range:

• Neomalsore Guesthouse (beautiful family-run guesthouse which I visited for raki and walnuts)
• Bujtina Shkambi (mountain guesthouse near the start of the Theth-Valbona hike, 9.9./10 from 40+ reviews)
• Te Sofra (authentic Theth guesthouse with breakfast made from local produce, 9.6/10 from 170+ reviews)
• Guesthouse “Gjin Thana” (well-equipped and beautiful guesthouse above the village of Theth, 9.5/10 from 700+ reviews)
• Villas Jezerca (super cute wooden cabins with insane mountain views, 9/10 from 1170+ reviews)

Something special:

• ⭐ Riverside Komani Lake (hands down the best place I stayed in Albania, an incredible family-owned lodge right on the water with magical views. If this link doesn’t take you to their booking.com page then that means they haven’t released their dates for next summer, you can get in touch with them through Instagram instead. 8.5/10 from 890+ reviews!)
• Vidis Chalet Boutique Hotel (super cool A-frame boutique hotel in Theth, 9.6/10 from 430+ reviews)
• Koman Paradise by Romina (spacious newly-renovated apartment with superb views, 9/10 from 140+ reviews)

Optional side quests/add ons

Berat

Berat is combined with Gjirokastër to make up UNESCO World Heritage Site of Albania’s Historic Centres, a traditional village frozen in time just 2.5 hours from Tirana.

I didn’t include it in the core Albania itinerary because it’s quite similar to Gjirokastër (but smaller) and required a return trip from Tirana if you’re travelling by bus, it’s not on the way to anywhere, but if you’re really into architecture or history then it’s definitely worth considering.

Buses run from Tirana frequently, you can see timetables here but check with the operators directly (the operator is listed next to the bus symbol) to ensure the schedule is up to date.

And if you do end up making it to Berat you HAVE to eat at Homemade Food Lili, which has an impressive 4.9/5 rating on Google from more than 1900 reviews, and another bucket list experience just beyond Berat is Osumi Canyon, book a tour to see the best of it without stress.

Krujë

Another easy add on from Tirana, just under an hour by bus, Krujë is most famous for its restored Ottoman-era bazaar and 1500-year-old castle.

If you’ve got a car then you can easily stop in Krujë between Tirana and Shkodër, but if you’re travelling by bus, it’ll require a double back.

The Tirana-Krujë bus runs frequently (see the timetable here but double check with the bus companies as I saw reviews saying it wasn’t 100% correct), then there’s apparently one Krujë-Shkodër bus per day at 7am, otherwise you’d need to switch buses at Fushe Krujë Station to a Shkodër bus, or go back to Tirana and switch to the direct Shkodër bus from there.

If you’re confident navigating travel logistics like this then it’s fairly easy, but if you’re not used to unreliable transport networks and tricky language barriers then I’d say Krujë is one to leave off for this trip.

Albania itinerary FAQs

I hope this car-free two week Albania itinerary has helped you plan your upcoming trip! If you have any Albania questions then please feel free to leave a comment below and I’ll get back to you as soon as I can. Safe travels 🥰

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MY GO-TO TRAVEL PLANNING RESOURCES

Flights ✈️ I use Skyscanner to find the best flights for my trip and then I’ll always book direct with the airline to protect myself from having to deal with dodgy third parties if anything goes wrong.

Trains 🚂 If I’m travelling through Europe, I try to travel by train wherever possible! For an extended trip (2+ weeks) I’ll calculate if a Eurail Pass is worth it, or I’ll book point-to-point tickets through RailEurope or the local train operator.

Accommodation 🛎️ I book almost all of my accommodation through booking.com, they have a user-friendly website + app and many of their options are free cancellation, easily cancelled with a simple click of a button.

Activities 🗽I use GetYourGuide, Klook and Viator to look for activities in the places I visit, or I just Google ‘things to do in [city]’! P.S. If you book anything on Klook you can use the promocode FINDINGALEXXKLOOK to get 10% off

Travel cards 💳 I’m a Wise gal through and through, they’ve been my chosen travel card for more than five years now. You can easily top up your card from your bank account or through Apple Pay, convert your money to local currency, and spend money with minimal fees and the best exchange rates around.

Travel insurance 🩺 I use Cover-More NZ travel insurance for my own trips, I have a comprehensive policy and I’ve only had good experiences with them. Cover-More also has an Australian company, but if you’re from elsewhere then two popular insurance options for global travellers are SafetyWing (cheaper policy, lower coverage) and World Nomads (more expensive but significantly better coverage).

Luggage 💼 I travel with Samsonite Cosmolite suitcases, one 75cm check in bag and a 55cm carry on bag, and I absolutely adore them and will never travel with anything else! They are SUPER lightweight (2.8kg and 1.9kg respectively) so I have much more space for my actual stuff.

Camera gear 📸 I use a iPhone 15 Pro Max for phone photos/videos, and my camera kit includes a Lumix S9 (incredible lightweight full-frame camera, a game changer for travel creators!) with a 20-60mm lens, a Lumix G9 with an 8-18mm and 12-60mm lens, a DJI Mini 3 Pro drone and a GoPro Hero 10. I do all my writing and editing on my ASUS Zenbook 14, it’s lightweight but powerful enough for photo editing and intense blogging sessions.