An honest Albanian Riviera guide: All you need to know

From picture-perfect beaches and chilled out coastal villages to overrated resort towns and half-finished high-rises, Albania’s southern coast is a mixed bag to say the least. Here’s all you need to know before travelling to the Albanian Riviera.

Rising from totally under the radar to viral stardom in a matter of summers, the Albanian Riviera has got to be a contender for the fastest growing tourism spot in the world.

There are hundreds of TikToks, Reels and clickbait headlines saying things like it’s the Maldives of Europe, the Med’s best-kept secret and waterfront luxury on a budget, promising wallet-friendly prices and crowd-free beaches.

I’m sorry to burst your bubble, but while those might have been accurate a few years ago, in my experience they are notttttt exactly the reality.

I spent a couple of weeks in the Riviera in September 2024 while travelling Albania solo, to see for myself whether the hype was deserved.

I split my time between staying in Sarandë, Ksamil and Himarë, and I stuck to an ‘in between’ travel budget where I prioritised comfort, convenience and epic experiences without breaking the bank. And let me tell you, it was definitely not what I expected.

Don’t get me wrong, some parts of the Riviera are still absolute gold. You’ll find swim spots just as good as Greece or Croatia, authentic hillside villages to experience local culture, and decent value for money away from the hot spots and out of peak season. But you do need to choose your base wisely, manage your expectations, and probably spend quite a bit more than you might have initially planned.

This no-BS Albanian Riviera guide cuts through the social media hype to give you an honest, unfiltered rundown of what you need to know while planning the Riviera portion of your Albania itinerary. I’ll give you advice on where to go (and where to avoid), help you navigate your transport and accommodation options, share my top must-dos and give you loads of budget, safety and logistical tips to make sure you have the best possible trip.

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Quick summary: Albanian Riviera travel guide

Where to go in the Albanian Riviera

Your Riviera experience will entirely depend on where you choose to spend your time.

Sarandë is the southern hub and entry point via ferry from Corfu, Greece. It’s got better services like loads of activity operators, proper supermarkets and healthcare, but the negative impact of mass tourism is extremely evident, with half-built hotels, overflowing trash and ridiculous prices.

Ksamil is a party town just south of Sarandë, with water as clear as the vodka they’re pouring at the beach bars. People say the sand here is like the Maldives too, but it’s impossible to tell when there are hundreds of sun loungers lined up from the shore to the promenade.

Borsh is much more low-key, home to Albania’s longest beach and a sprinkling of guesthouses, apartments and hotels.

Himarë is my personal favourite, offering the perfect combo of tourist-friendly facilities, decent food and a chill, local vibe.

Vuno is a super cute authentic village that most people only drive through, but it’s got some of the best value places to stay and offers easy access to the most beautiful beaches if you have a car.

Dhermi is for you if you like nice things, with boutique hotels and fancy beach clubs dotted along the waterfront, and terracotta-tiled houses stacked up the hillside. Prices are high but so is the quality, if you’re looking to treat yourself I’d suggest doing it here rather than in Sarandë.

And finally, Vlore is the northern gateway to the Riviera and Albania’s third-biggest city. It gets hectic in summer with mostly domestic visitors, and the beaches are nowhere near as nice as the ones further south, but if you just need a base that’s closer to Tirana then it could work.

Best things to do

• Beach hopping, obviously! Book a boat tour to reach hidden coves, or rent a car to discover the coast at your own pace. I highly recommend Lido Boat Tours from Himarë, and don’t miss the viewpoint at Grama Bay!
• Watch sunset from a beach bar with a cocktail in hand
• Visit the hillside old towns of Dhermi, Himarë or Vuno
• Wander around Porto Palermo Castle, a 19th century fortress almost surrounded by water
• See the ancient ruins of Butrint National Park
• Take a day trip to the Blue Eye (Syri i Kaltër) natural spring and the traditional town of Gjirokastër
• Book a kayak trip and paddle along the coast

Top tips for a smooth trip

• Book accommodation well in advance if you’re visiting in summer, last minute prices skyrocket big time
• Avoid Sarandë and Ksamil unless you want to party, the other towns offer better beaches, better prices and better experiences overall
• If you’re a solo female traveller, I’m doubling down on that one: avoid Sarandë and Ksamil. I had a few extremely uncomfortable situations here with persistent men, I didn’t experience any physical harm but the creepiness, the staring and the hassling was relentless. In the rest of the Riviera I felt completely safe though!
• Bring Euros with you (everywhere in the Albanian Riviera accepts Euros at a set rate) or get local currency (lek) out at the start of your trip, but get enough to last you the whole time. ATM fees are ridiculous, €5-8 per withdrawal even at the bank-owned ATMs 🤯
• Most people working in tourism in the Riviera will speak English very well, but it’s always good to learn local words for hello, thank you and goodbye just to be polite
• Travel in June and September for the best weather and fairer prices, May and October are cheaper still but lots of things shut for the off season
• Stay somewhere with kitchen facilities, it’ll save you money and give you the option to avoid tourist-trap restaurants
• Be prepared for logistical headaches, buses connect all the towns but they can be unreliable and difficult to navigate. I’ve got more info on them below.

Real talk: Things to know before you go

Tourism is growing rapidly

Albania is fairly fresh as a tourist destination, but the rate of growth is wiiiild. Visitor numbers shot up 35% from 2022 to 2023, the 2024 stats aren’t public yet but as of October, international arrivals were up 34% compared to the same period in 2023 😲

While more incoming travellers bring huge economic benefit, the unfortunate reality is that the Riviera is simply not built to sustain this amount of tourism. And to make matters worse, the corruption of public services in Albania means the financial gain from tourism isn’t being reinvested into local infrastructure or preservation of culture either.

The roads can’t handle this many vehicles, there’s trash everywhere, there are power cuts in peak season due to the grid being overloaded, beaches are being taken over by an invasion of sun loungers, and authentic local businesses are being priced out by Westernised restaurants and tacky souvenir shops.

The rate of growth makes planning an Albanian Riviera trip tricky too, because the prices you see online are almost certainly out of date. I was told by multiple locals that prices in 2024 were 50-100% higher than the previous summer! Take any price guides with a grain of salt, especially if they don’t specify when the prices were from, because €30 beachfront hotels and €2.50 cocktails are long gone.

It’s nothing like the Maldives

Let me make this very clear: the Albanian Riviera is not ‘the Maldives of Europe’. Does it have perfectly clear water? Absolutely. But that’s where the similarities end.

If you can make it to the less accessible beaches that are a drive + hike away, or that can only be reached by boat, they truly are magical and will probably not be toooo busy. Soft sand, dramatic caves, turquoise shores, just as good as beaches you’d see in Greece and Croatia.

The underwater life is minimal (like the rest of the Mediterranean), and there are no overwater bungalows or butlers to bring you pina coladas to your private plunge pool, but if we’re only comparing the water then sure, it’s the Maldives of Europe.

Butttt the main beaches that tourists visit, in the towns of Sarandë and Ksamil or that have easy car parks right behind them, are honestly so overrated and overrun. Very much not the Maldives.

Beach clubs blasting shit music trying to drown out the neighbour’s speakers, sun loungers packed so tightly you’d barely know there’s sand underneath, and jet skis decked out to look like Ferraris hooning around the bay. Yuck.

If you’ve seen the TikToks of empty beaches then this might be disappointing to you, but I’d rather tell you straight up now so you’re not gutted when you get there!

Half-finished construction everywhere

Albania’s tourism growth has triggered a construction boom right along the coast, with investors both domestic and international hoping to cash in on the influx of visitors.

But the development isn’t all good news, for tourists or for locals.

Corruption within Albania’s real estate and development industry is rife, with minimal regulation of building standards and plenty of sketchy financial dealings behind the scenes.

Throw in a global pandemic, a post-pandemic economic downturn, the Russian invasion of Ukraine (both countries have ultra-rich developers who were investing in the coast), and the result is a skyline full of empty concrete shells that might never be completed. And if they are completed, chances are they’ve been built without any proper safety checks.

Accommodation standards

There’s a huge range of accommodation in the Albanian Riviera, from campgrounds with seaside tents to epic luxury resorts, though the vast majority of places to stay would fit into the 2* or 3* categories.

Most proper hotels offer typical amenities like a front desk, WiFi, daily house-keeping and air con, but a decent chunk of the accommodation in the Riviera are actually private apartment rentals or small guesthouses, which have much lower standards.

Some things to know about places like these:

• Many of the apartments listed on booking.com, Airbnb etc. are located in buildings without any of the regulations you’d expect in more developed countries, e.g. smoke alarms, carbon monoxide detectors, fire exits
• Many buildings don’t have elevators, even if they’re six storeys high
• Air con isn’t guaranteed, and if somewhere says it has air con it might only have it in the lounge and not in the bedroom
• WiFi can be patchy and slow
• Proper duvets are uncommon, most places only give you a sheet or thin blanket
• If you book an apartment (as opposed to a hotel), security is minimal. Most buildings have open access to the lobby and stairs/elevator and physical keys for apartments, rather than electronic access like keycards or codes.
• Most apartments are not very well equipped, I stayed in four different places with a kitchen and every single one had very limited kitchen utensils

Always read reviews carefully, and if you’ve got a non-negotiable (like air con in the bedroom or fast WiFi) then message the listing before booking.

Health and safety

The lack of regulation extends to activity operators too, and safety standards can be pretty lax. Some key things to be aware of:

• Water activity operators may not have proper licenses or safety equipment like life jackets
• Adventure activities like paragliding or white water rafting may not meet internationally-recognised standards
• Tourism staff might not have any formal qualifications, training or background checks
• Healthcare and emergency services are limited in the Riviera, especially outside of Sarandë, so medical help can be far away if something goes wrong

This doesn’t mean you should skip everything, it just means you need to do your research and be smart with your travel choices. Only book tours and activities with operators that have good reviews, ask about safety standards if you don’t feel comfortable, and get comprehensive travel insurance before your trip to make sure you’ll be looked after if anything does go wrong.

ATM fees are wild

Albania is a cash-based economy, even apartment rentals and expensive day tours might only take cash.

Unfortunately for tourists, ATM withdrawal fees are absolutely exorbitant in the Riviera. Every single ATM I tried charged between €5-8 for the withdrawal! These are bank-owned ATMs, which are meant to be the cheapest option, not the dodgy private ones like Euronet (which are always pricey).

To give you a comparison, mega tourist cities like Dubrovnik, Rome and Santorini have bank-owned ATMs that might charge up to €3-4, but €8 (!!!) for a withdrawal at a bank-owned ATM is something I have never seen in all of my travels. There are blogs online that say there are ATMs with free withdrawals but I just don’t think these exist any more, I did a lottttt of Google research and visited loads of ATMs in Sarandë, Ksamil and Himarë, and 500ALL (€5) was the lowest fee I found.

Most bank ATMs have Google reviews so you can read those to see current fees, though it seems the banks change the fee depending on demand / maybe depending on cash reserve (if that’s even possible) so only trust recent reviews, and leave reviews after you’ve used one to let other travellers know how much it costs.

Everywhere in the Albanian Riviera accepts Euro though, including supermarkets and restaurants, so if you’re coming from another Euro country then get cash out before you head to Albania.

Shoulder season is key

The best tip I can give you to get the best Albanian Riviera experience possible is that it’s all about timing.

Peak summer (July-August) brings sweltering heat, sky-high prices and overcrowded beaches, thanks to incoming visitors trying to avoid the sweltering heat, sky-high prices and overcrowded beaches of Greece and Croatia. Aaaand the cycle continues 🙃

If you can avoid these months, please do. Your wallet will thank you!

And if you can’t avoid them (sorry teachers ☹️), or if you’ve already booked your flights, I highly, highly recommend avoiding Sarandë and Ksamil and finding a base further up the coast instead.

Shoulder season is your best bet for milder weather, fewer tourists and better value, though the shoulder season here is much shorter compared to more developed tourist destinations, and many hotels, restaurants and activity operators will close up shop from mid/late September to early/mid-June.

May and October are gorgeous if you’re okay with quiet towns, chill vibes and fewer food/activity choices, otherwise June and September will avoid the worst of the crowds while still getting the full Riviera experience, just don’t expect any beaches to yourself.

November to April are totally dead, with many locals moving to winter destinations like Switzerland, Italy or Austria to work in tourism before coming back the following summer.

Getting between towns in the Albanian Riviera

By bus

Local buses run between all the towns along the Riviera, tickets are cheap and the comfort level is basic. Here’s what you need to know:

• There’s no official public bus company for the whole Riviera, routes between towns are serviced by a variety of private operators who all have different schedules
• Timetables change seasonally
• Sarandë to Ksamil uses a public bus, very cheap and runs throughout the day
• GjirafaTravel is the best option for buying tickets online from Sarandë going north
• You can buy bus tickets at local ticket offices, or you can buy tickets from the driver (if the bus isn’t full), both options are usually cash only
• Buses are basic, air con is hit and miss, seatbelts don’t exist, drivers light up cigarettes while on the road 🚬
• There’s luggage storage underneath or at the back of the bus
• Buses leave early if they’re full, and there’s no electronic record of passengers for most operators, so even if you bought a ticket earlier they might fill your seat and leave you behind if you’re not there (as I learnt, luckily just in time). Get to the bus stop 15-20 minutes ahead of departure to make sure you get a seat.
• Take a bus early in the day so you’ve got back up options in case of any mishaps. You don’t want to take the last bus, get left behind, and be scrambling for an expensive cab to drive you 1.5 hours in the dark.

By taxi

There are lots of taxis in Sarandë and Ksamil, and fewer in the smaller towns, but they aren’t cheap (anymore!).

Official taxis have yellow plates and are meant to use meters, but the reality is that none of them do, especially when it’s busy. If you ask for the meter they’ll just refuse to drive until you get out of the car 🤷🏼‍♀️ There’s no regulation, or at least it’s not enforced, so taxi drivers can do whatever they want.

The flat rates they offer are unsurprisingly ridiculously inflated. From my apartment 10 minutes/4km away from Sarandë’s main promenade, every taxi charged €10. That’s more expensive than taxis in Paris or Rome, and the same price as what you’d pay in Copenhagen!

The flat rate from Sarandë to Ksamil changes each season, in 2023 it was €12-15 one way but in 2024 it was €25-30 one way.

Most taxi drivers will give you a business card with their WhatsApp number for future rides, if you find one you trust then keep his details so you can message him when you need to get somewhere. I used Taxi 251 for a few of my trips and he was excellent, a comfortable car, easy to communicate with, and not creepy!

Some taxi drivers in the Riviera seem super seedy though, they park up outside beach clubs and hassle girls walking past, so check Google reviews or ask your accommodation for recommendations, especially for longer journeys or trips at night.

By car

Having your own wheels is your ticket to ultimate freedom in the Albanian Riviera, but driving here is not exactly a relaxing experience.

Private car ownership was banned throughout the communist regime, so until the early 1990s, pretty much no Albanians had their own cars (except for the government and their friends). This has resulted in a 100-fold (🤯) increase of cars on the road vs. 30 years ago, a corrupt licensing system that’s bribe-able, and road rules that are ignored by 95% of drivers. HOW FUN.

If you’re a confident driver and you’re up for the challenge, having a car is the most convenient way to explore the coast. You can discover beaches away from the typical tourist trail, travel at your own pace, and change plans based on weather and sea conditions.

Rates really depend on demand because stock is limited, if you book early you can find cheap cars in Sarandë from €30-40 per day, but last minute bookings in summer could be €100 or more.

But driving has some downsides too, particularly difficulty parking in busy places like Sarandë and Ksamil, unpredictable and aggressive drivers who overtake on blind mountain corners, and rough road conditions away from the main highway. As I said, confident drivers can probably handle it, but if you’re not used to driving with these hazards then stick to buses instead.

Town-hopping vs. staying in one place and doing day trips

You’ll want to decide whether you’d like to experience staying in multiple towns along the Riviera during your trip, or whether you’d like to choose one place as a base and do day trips from there. Here’s what to consider for each option:

Town-hopping

• Get a feel for different parts of the coast
• More variety in beaches and swimming spots
• Try different restaurants
• Can be more expensive with transport and shorter bookings (so no extended stay discounts)
• More effort to plan logistics
• Much easier if you have a car

Choosing a base

• Less hassle with luggage and check ins/check outs
• Better rates for longer stays
• Get to know local restaurant and bar staff if you find somewhere you love
• Flexibility to change plans based on weather, no need to stick to a day trip if it’s raining because you can just do it tomorrow anyway
• Sarandë is the best base if you don’t have a car but it’s crowded and not great value
• If you have a car then Himarë is great, cheaper, more chill, central so easy access to most places

My recommendation would be to stick to 3-4 night stays at a minimum if you’re wanting to town-hop, any shorter is just too annoying with travel logistics.

Where to go in the Albanian Riviera

Sarandë

Sarandë is a busy resort town serving as the main hub of the southern Riviera, and if you’re coming from Corfu via ferry this is where you’ll arrive.

Its appeal is all practical. It’s a convenient base if you want to stay in one place and do day trips, there are loads of options for where to stay and what to eat, and the town is totally tailored for tourists so there are minimal language barriers, culture shocks or logistical knots to untangle. A good option for big groups, families with young kids, or anyone looking for a fly-and-flop low stress getaway.

But the cost of this convenience is clear to see, and the once low-key town is buckling under the pressures of increasing tourist numbers. Half-finished hotels dominate the skyline, rubbish litters the streets and coastline, and most food/accommodation is average and overpriced. If you’re looking for authentic charm, value for money, and peace and quiet, this isn’t it.

I also wouldn’t recommend it for solo female travellers, I had a few run ins with creepy men who clearly have a preconceived notion of Western women, and I was on the receiving end of some aggressively persistent flirting.

Best restaurants:

• Manxurane Restaurant (the burrata 🤌🏼)
• Hera Restaurant
• The Nomad Burgers
• Shpella
• Eating out is not cheap here, it’s on par with other Mediterranean destinations (Dubrovnik, Greek Islands etc.) and the overall quality of the restaurant scene is nothing special. Food in Tirana is pretty much half the price and wayyy higher quality.

Where to stay:

• My top pick: White Residence Luxury Apartment was the best place I stayed in the Riviera, I actually extended my stay for an extra week because it was perfect for getting work done! Full kitchen, comfy bed with a duvet (very rare in Albania), WiFi, a balcony for sunsets and lightning storm viewing, and it was away from the tacky tourist area but right by a bus stop for a quick ride to the central city. Prices depend on season but I’d say it’s in the mid-range to upmarket bracket.
• Budget: Hostel Hasta La Vista, Elti Apartment, Vila Floban
• Mid-range: Guesthouse Villa Joanna&Mattheo, Enia’s Room, Isabela Apartments
• Luxury: La Fe Boutique Hotel, The Collector Hotel Boutique, San Angelo Luxury Resort

Ksamil

Albania’s party capital is 30 minutes south of Sarandë by car or bus, famous for its Maldives-esque water and Mykonos-ish beach clubs. The water is stunning and perfectly clear, so that’s not a lie… you just have to weave your way through the maze of €25 sun loungers to actually swim in it.

If you’re searching for somewhere to revel rather than relax, Ksamil will tick that box. There are nightlife options ranging from cheap and chilled out beach bars through to fancy seaside clubs with swimming pools and VIP cabanas, but they can be very hit and miss so check reviews before you choose where to go.

Just keep in mind that Ksamil’s tourism is increasing at a wild rate, which means pricing gets out of date real quick. €3 cocktails and €40 hotels mentioned in travel articles are no longer the norm, you’re looking at €5-8 happy hours and €10-18 cocktails at other times, and hotels are two or three times the price vs. a couple of years ago. You’d be able to find a similar vibe at some Greek or Croatian islands for the same price, so do with that what you will.

This is another one I’d caution solo female travellers about, the party culture means drunk guys everywhere and that’s never fun as a woman dining, walking or exploring alone.

Best restaurants & bars:

• Augusti Beach Bar
• Ohana Beach Bar
• Uma Beach Bar
• Ostro
• Lounge Bar Bermuda
• Hidden Bay
• GREG Restaurant (the service here was actually atrocious but the food was delicious)

Where to stay:

• Budget: Vila Dura, Arjana & Nelaj Apartments, Twins Hotel
• Mid-range: I loved Hotel Golden, it’s family-owned, it has super spacious rooms with kitchenette facilities, and it’s down a drive way off one of the main roads so convenient location without the street noise or beach bar speakers booming through the night. Other mid-range options are Hotel Vathi, Lake View Rooms and Villa Earta & Leo.
• Luxury: Lago Calmo Villa, Serein Villas, Area Hotel

Borsh

Still under the tourist radar, Borsh is a family-friendly option with a pebbly 7km beach (Albania’s longest) that most Riviera visitors drive right past. Perfect for escaping the chaos in Ksamil and Sarandë!

There’s a small but growing number of hotels and guesthouses here, and there seems to be new restaurants and beach bars popping up every few weeks, mostly serving up traditional fare and casual drinks for pretty good prices.

Even if you choose to stay somewhere with more going on, Borsh is a good option for a day of chill time or cheap sunset drinks and a fresh seafood dinner.

Best restaurants & bars:

• Menadria
• Mare Paradiso
• SOLYMAR
• Sunny Beach
• Sabor de Mar
• AYA
• Glob Beach bar

Where to stay:

• Budget: Borsh Olive Camping, Camping Jungle, Jungle House
• Mid-range: Villa Matilda, Dima’s Apartments

Himarë

About 50km north of Sarandë, with epic views along the way, Himarë is my personal favourite slice of the Albanian Riviera. It strikes the perfect balance between having enough infrastructure to support incoming travellers, while retaining traditional Albanian charm and casual coastal vibes.

There are hostels, guesthouses and hotels from budget to boutique, plenty of affordable restaurants, beautiful beaches within walking distance, and a bunch of of boat tour operators who can take you to dreamy swim spots only accessible from the water.

But what I loved the most about this place is the fact that it feels like people actually live here, unlike the tourist-tailored theme park of Sarandë or the beach club hub of Ksamil. It gets pretty packed in July and August, as anywhere on the coast, but June and September are ideal.

My number one recommendation for the best thing to do in Himarë is to spend a day on the water with the legends at Lido Boat Tours! They run a few different routes but I did the longest one which takes 5-6 hours with lots of swim stops at secluded coves and grottos along the way. Don’t miss the walk to the viewpoint at Grama Bay, honestly mind-blowing.

Best restaurants & bars:

• Valentino
• Cafe Kanda
• Piazza Restaurant
• Tonea’s Cafe
• La Mer Restaurant
• SOREN
• Napoli Pizzeria
• Crepes Best in Town
• Oniro by Iliria Palace (perfect for sunset drinks)
• Invicta Beach Bar

Where to stay:

• Budget: Mateo, Himarë Hostel
• Mid-range: Harmonia 2, Villa Rondo, Faidra, Guest House Solive
• Luxury: Rea Boutique Hotel, Rapo’s Resort Hotel

Dhermi

A bit further north again is Dhermi, a stylish holiday spot for travellers who like nice things.

It’s probably the most picturesque village along the Riviera, with layer upon layer of terracotta-topped houses stacked up the hillside, while the waterfront down below is quickly becoming Albania’s best boutique getaway.

Classy beach clubs, top level restaurants and upmarket hotels definitely demand higher budgets, on par with the popular Greek Islands and Dubrovnik in Croatia, but the quality matches the cost (unlike Sarandë and Ksamil).

You’ll want to rent a car if you’re staying here, it is serviced by buses but they only stop up in the village and it’s a lot of stairs to get down to the beach if you’ve booked a hotel by the water.

Best restaurants & bars:

• Sofia Bar
• Elysium
• Harry’s Creperie
• Noah on the Beach
• Bacaro Beach Bar
• La Siesta

Where to stay:

• Mid-range: Hotel Imperial, Golden View Residence, Eva & Resul Apartments (just out of Dhermi)
• Luxury: La Brisa Boutique Hotel, Blue Boutique Hotel, Green Coast Resort & Residences 94

Vlore

Right at the northern end of the Riviera is Vlore, Albania’s third-largest city and the go-to vacation spot for North Albania locals looking for a beach getaway.

It’s built up and commercialised, the beaches aren’t as good as the southern coast and it doesn’t have any of the small town charm that the villages have, but it has loads of hotels and apartments for all budgets, a fantastic culinary scene, easy access to Tirana and Berat, and lower prices than the other options.

Best restaurants & bars:

• Taverna Djepi Shqipëtar
• Paradise Beach
• Gusta la Puglia
• Tre Forchette
• Da Michele Ristorante
• Taverna Xhakaj

Where to stay:

• Budget: Vlora Backpackers Hostel, Hotel Bar Restaurant Mete, Meri Rooms
• Mid-range: Alv Rent Rooms, Olivium Rooms, George Luxury Apartment Vlore
• Luxury: Maritim Marina Bay Resort, Priam Luxury Resort, Hotel Beke, Nobus Hotel & Spa

Things to do in the Albanian Riviera

Beach hopping

While the main beaches in the town centres can be crowded and not super clean, the untouched Albanian coastline is just as good as anywhere else in the Mediterranean.

If you’ve got a car, you’ll have free reign to visit countless spots along the Riviera, from shallow pebble beaches to rocky hidden bays only accessible by clambering down a precarious cliff via rope. Some have carparks right in front, some require a hike, some you can only get to by boat.

The best beaches in the Albanian Riviera are:

• Jale Beach
• Gjipe Beach
• Krorëza Beach
• Palasa Beach
• Livadhi Beach
• Filikuri Beach
• Grama Bay

Boat trips

For access to the top tier beaches though, a boat tour along the Riviera is an absolute must.

Boat trips run from Sarandë, Ksamil, Himarë, Dhermi and Vlore, and there are options from short and sweet sunset cruises to 3-4 hour trips to 5-6 hour coastal adventures. You can book group tours or private tours, replica pirate ships or small speedboat trips, there are even catamarans for ultimate relaxation or decked out party boats if you’re looking for a booze cruise.

I booked the longest tour with Lido Boat Tours from Himarë, which was so ideal because being further up the coast from Sarandë/Ksamil means you can reach the iconic Grama Bay with more than enough time for the short hike up to the viewpoint.

The speedboat was cosy but comfortable, the soundtrack was non-stop bangers, the captain and guide were clearly experts about the coast, and it was just epic beach after epic beach after epic beach. Definitely the highlight of my southern Albania adventures.

Some things to be aware of:

• There are lots of operators, and they all have stalls or officed along the main beach or promenade. They pretty much all follow the same route, and they’re very similarly-priced, with the fancier boats being 20-30% more expensive than the basic ones. Most tours include water, some include beer or other drinks, some include lunch, some are BYO food.
• Albanian health and safety standards may not be what you’re used to back home, which could mean no life jackets unless you ask, no safety briefing, and very fast driving sometimes too close for comfort to other boats.
• In saying that, our captain at Lido Boat Tours was clearly very experienced and skilled, I had no safety concerns with him! He managed to manoeuvre the speedboat into tiny little grottoes with extreme precision, seriously impressive.
• At some swim stops the boat can go right up to the beach for you to hop off onto the sand or into shallow water, but some stops are just caves where you’ll need to jump in from the boat into a depth where you can’t touch the bottom. If you’re not a confident swimmer you can request a life jacket.
• You’ll notice concrete mounds with long windows dotted all along the rocky coast, these are bunkers from communist times. They estimate that Albania has between 175,000 and 750,000 bunkers in the country!

Other water activities

If you’re looking for a more laidback way to explore the coastline, you could go for a slower pace with a guided kayak tour, kayak rental to go on your own, or a SUP (stand up paddleboard) tour.

Find the best sunset spot

The Albanian Riviera offers killer views as the sun goes down, with the sky turning a fiery red over the (usually) calm horizon. Head to a beach bar, a hillside restaurant or even a castle and soak up the view.

See an abandoned submarine bunker

Remnants of Albania’s communist history are hidden below the surface of the Riviera… literally. There are the usual concrete bunkers popping up out of the coast, but there’s also a huge abandoned submarine bunker near Porto Palermo, just south of Himarë.

The bunker isn’t in use for anything at the moment but it’s also not open to the public, you can see it from afar from the road. In saying that, it’s a fairly popular adventure for intrepid visitors who don’t mind breaking the rules. I didn’t go, and I wouldn’t recommend trespassing in any country (especially Albania where their police and justice system aren’t exactly gentle), but that’s how there are more detailed accounts of it than mine. You do you!

Discover ancient ruins

History buffs rejoice, the Riviera punches well above its weight in the archaeological department too, with castles, theatres and fortresses to explore.

The main ancient site is the UNESCO-listed Butrint National Park, with incredibly well-preserved city walls and other buildings dating back to BC times. It’s a short drive from Sarandë and Ksamil, lots of operators run day trips combined with other landmarks if you don’t have a car.

Other historical sites to visit are:

• Lëkurësi Castle near Sarandë
• Orikum near Vlore

Visit the Blue Eye (Syri i Kaltër)

Southern Albania’s most magical natural wonder is the Blue Eye (Syri i Kaltër), a natural spring where ice cold water shoots up from underground caves, creating layers of blue and green.

P.S. There are two ‘Blue Eyes’ in Albania, this one in the Riviera and then one up north near Theth. Confusing!

From Sarandë it’s a 30 minute drive to the main carpark or bus stop, and then it’s a 30-40 minute walk to the Blue Eye depending on your pace. It’s a fully paved easy walk, some uphill sections, but it’s very exposed so it can be tiring in the heat. Take water, sunblock and a decent hat.

You can bus there (check current schedules with Butrinti Travel & Tours), catch a taxi, or go with a shared shuttle through KMG which is what I did, super convenient and they drop you right at the entrance instead of at the bus stop. There is also parking right next to the entrance but it’s limited, and when I went it wasn’t open to tourists it was only being used by taxi drivers.

Day trip to Gjirokastër

The City of Stone is another easy side trip from Sarandë or elsewhere on the Riviera, where you can wander the epic fortress, visit a Cold War Tunnel, and shop for local souvenirs in the traditional bazaar shops. It’s very popular with day trippers, unsurprisingly, but despite the crowds it still feels charming and authentic.

There is a shuttle service that connects the Blue Eye and Gjirokastër from Sarandë so you could do both in one day if you don’t have a car, otherwise it’s an easy drive or there’s a local bus too.

Safety in the Albanian Riviera

Is the Albanian Riviera safe?

This isn’t an easy question to answer.

Crime rates in the Albanian Riviera are low, especially violent crime against tourists. I didn’t personally come to any physical harm, and I haven’t met anyone who was a victim of a physical crime. If you are a man, or if you’re a woman travelling with a man or in a group, there’s no need to have any more safety concerns than anywhere else in Europe.

But for solo female travellers in the Albanian Riviera, it’s sadly a different story. The combination of a conservative, patriarchal society and the immense growth as a boozy, party destination with an influx of international visitors has resulted in a very uncomfortable environment for women.

I want to emphasise that this certainly wasn’t my experience with all men in the Riviera, my accommodation hosts, tour guides and many waiters were very friendly and respectful, but I did have three separate incidents with aggressively persistent local men who would not leave me alone. Considering the fact I’ve been to 50+ countries as a solo female traveller and have had maybe a handful of other uncomfortable situations, having three in one destination is a sign of a problem in that place, rather than just bad luck.

I wasn’t hurt, and I do think they were all cases of over-friendliness and lack of understanding of boundaries rather than malicious intent, but it was creepy and icky and it really impacted my enjoyment of the Riviera.

The reality of the Riviera for solo female travellers

Every solo female traveller has probably experienced unwanted attention from men while travelling, I wish that wasn’t something we accepted as ‘normal’ but unfortunately it’s a constant almost everywhere in the world.

Most of the time I block out these advances with good ol’ ignorance: noise-cancelling headphones so I don’t respond to them talking to me, sunglasses to avoid eye contact, shutting down any conversation so my reaction can’t be misconstrued as interest, or leaving the situation if I don’t feel comfortable.

In the Riviera, in my experience, some men were so persistent that none of these worked, and I found myself in a few situations where I was extremely uncomfortable due to persistent, creepy guys who wouldn’t leave me alone.

I’ll give you some specifics of the particularly notable incidents with some key takeaways in case you find yourself in a similar spot.

Creepy taxi driver

I contacted a top-rated taxi driver on WhatsApp (which is normal in Albania), he wasn’t available but gave me numbers of other options, I messaged one and booked a ride. He was fine on the drive and dropped me to the door of my apartment building.

That evening he messaged me and asked me out for a drink, I politely said no, he continued to message me for three days. I didn’t block him because I wanted to be able to see his messages in case he mentioned coming to my apartment, luckily he didn’t and I blocked him as soon as I left.

Takeaways:

• If possible, get a driver to drop you off at a supermarket or shop near your accommodation, so they don’t know exactly where you’re staying (this is a good rule for anywhere!)
• Only book with drivers with a Google business page where you can read and leave a review

Loser in the supermarket

I was shopping for some food in a small supermarket in Ksamil.

As I walked around a corner, a guy bumped into me, I apologised and kept walking. Twenty seconds later he tapped me on the shoulder (I was wearing my headphones) and asked where I was from, I said New Zealand, smiled, and put my headphones back on to make it clear I wasn’t interested in a chat. He tapped me again, I said “sorry I’m in a rush, I’m meeting my friend in 20 minutes” and he said “fuck your friend, come with me to a bar and I’ll tell you all the best places to go around here”. I said no thanks I just need to get my shopping done, and kept walking.

He proceeded to follow me through the aisles and stood behind me at the check out even though there was an available one a couple of metres away. I didn’t want to walk back to my hotel and risk him seeing where I was staying, so I just stood in the entrance of the supermarket and pretended to take a call, once he saw I was otherwise occupied he left and walked the other way. Once he was out of sight I boosted back to my hotel and didn’t go outside again until it was time for me to leave the town 🙃

Takeaways:

• Don’t walk straight to your accommodation if you think someone is watching you
• If someone is hassling you, say you’ve got someone waiting for you at a specific time. It might not put off a creepy guy wanting attention, but if there’s any malicious intent there they’re less likely to hurt you if they know someone is expecting to hear from you or see you soon.

The waiter who watched me eat

I was looking for somewhere nice to go for a solo lunch, and I found a well-rated restaurant upstairs in a building just off the main promenade. It was 3pm on a weekday in late September so there weren’t too many tourists around, and I was the only person in the restaurant.

The waiter asked if I was alone, I immediately said “just eating alone, my friends are at the hotel”, made my order, and put my headphones on to watch a movie on my iPad.

15 minutes later he brought out my food, then he said “Don’t worry darling, you don’t have to eat alone today”, pulled out the chair next to me, and sat down 😲 I was literally so shocked, I tried to laugh it off and said “Haha no it’s all good, I have a show to watch anyway” and put my headphones back on.

But he didn’t budge! He sat and watched me while I tried to make it clear I wasn’t interested in chatting, but the awkwardness got too much (I was also hyper-aware that I was alone in a restaurant with him and didn’t want to aggravate the situation) so I took my headphones off, hoping this would be over with a couple of minutes of niceties.

Spoiler alert: It wasn’t.

It started off fairly harmless, “How long are you here for? How many friends are you with? Where are you staying?” and obviously I lied for all of them. One mistake I made was not saying that I had any guy friends with me, but he asked my friends’ names and I just said the first ones that came to mind, of girlfriends I had just been hanging out with in Greece. I didn’t want to get caught in a web of lies that I couldn’t keep up, but the lack of a boy in our group clearly emboldened him further.

The questions progressed: “Why don’t you have a boyfriend?” Because it’s 2024 and we don’t need boyfriends. “In Albania you need a boyfriend at your age.” Why is that? “Because without a boyfriend, who will protect you?” Protect me from who, waiters who sit at my table without asking and hassle me while I eat?

I didn’t say that last part, but I wish I had.

Next it was “Tell your friends you’re busy tomorrow, I’m going to take you to all the beaches. I’ve lived here my whole life, I know all the best spots where there are no other tourists. Don’t be scared, I won’t hurt you, I just want to share my country with you. I own an apartment which I rent out, you and your friends should stay there instead. Girls who travel are my favourite kind of girls, it means they are intelligent and open-minded. Why are you wearing sunglasses? You have such beautiful eyes. Let’s take a selfie. What’s your number? I’ll send you some local tips.”

I didn’t give him my number but I did give him my Instagram, because by this stage I was freaked out and was hoping that seeing I had a platform might put him off from being any creepier. Mission kind of accomplished?

The convo moved away from taking me to secret beaches (it’s a no from me) to my job instead. “How much money do you make? Is it more than €1000 a month? €2000 a month? Can I travel with you and you teach me how to do this? How do I start? How do I take good photos?”.

If you’re thinking why would I put up with this, why didn’t I tell him I was uncomfortable, or why didn’t I just leave, then I can almost guarantee you’re a man.

Any woman who has been in an uncomfortable situation like this, with no other people around and no easy escape, will understand that it’s a risk either way: pretend like everything is fine to avoid escalating the situation, or make it clear you’re unhappy but risk the guy getting angry and violent.

In this situation I didn’t reeeally feel that he was going to hurt me, but being upstairs at a restaurant down a quiet street meant that making a run for it wasn’t an option. I had ordered and eaten food, leaving without paying could result in the police getting involved and for obvious reasons I didn’t want that.

I suspected (and still do) this was just a case of extreme over-friendliness and maybe some inexperienced flirting that he didn’t realise came across as super creepy, but within the context of me being alone with him, I was so uncomfortable not having a way out. Literally any one minute segment of our conversation would be clear that I was not interested, let alone 45 minutes of it.

In the end I finished lunch, paid for my meal, rejected a couple more advances, headed back to my hotel and stewed for the rest of the day at how annoyed I was at the entitlement to my time and my personal space. That afternoon I had a message from him on Instagram, I deleted it and blocked him straight away.

I’ve ruminated on whether to share the restaurant name publicly, and I’ve decided not to for a number of reasons, but I have left a review TripAdvisor so potential customers can read them before they go there. And I’ll say again, please read reviews before booking any hotels, restaurants, tours etc., so you can check that no previous customers had any safety issues.

The reasons I’ve decided not to name the restaurant are:

• Albania’s social and cultural norms are very different to more developed, less conservative countries. While his persistent behaviour would probably be classified as harassment in most Western countries, in Albania this wouldn’t be considered a crime (or even anything close to a crime).
• I checked the restaurant reviews thoroughly when I got home and not only was there no mention of solo girls feeling uncomfortable, there were actually an overwhelming amount of reviews mentioning this waiter by name and saying how friendly, helpful and funny he was. With that context I do think he was just flirting very badly and was probably unaware of how uncomfortable he was making me feel.
• The Riviera revolves around tourism and one negative review could ruin a business, I don’t want to impact the business owners and other staff members because of one waiter’s bad behaviour.
• I wasn’t hurt physically, just very creeped out 🙃
• While I did explicitly say no at the start of our conversation, my rejection got softer as the convo went on because I didn’t want to escalate the situation. If I had been stronger and made it clear that I was feeling scared then he potentially might have got the message.

I do think he crossed the line (particularly around the persistent, personal questions) but I don’t think he was necessarily trying to hurt me. My TripAdvisor review was detailed though so if you’re looking for places to eat solo, check TripAdvisor and search ‘solo’ in the filter to make sure it’s not the place I went.

Safety tips for the Albanian Riviera

• Reviews are gospel! Read them to check for any potential safety concerns, leave them for others to let them know about your experience.
• Get an eSIM to stay connected, WiFi can be spotty. MobiMatter is my go-to and they have Europe eSIMs which include Albania for less than half of what you’d pay for Airalo or the other big eSIM providers.
• Drive defensively if you’re renting a car, Albanian roads can be dodgy and driving rules are more of a guideline. Be prepared for dangerous overtaking, drivers who run through stop signs and give ways, and hazards like huge potholes or farm animals if you’re inland.
• Pay more for accommodation that’s private and secure
• Choose legitimate and trusted operators for any water activities, and check life jackets and safety policies (especially if you’re not a confident swimmer) as these aren’t necessarily a given in Albania
• Just the usual precautions too, keep valuables secure, avoid walking at night alone etc.

Budget tips for the Albanian Riviera

The Albanian Riviera isn’t as cheap as you might expect, so if you’re hoping for €40 4* hotels and €3 cocktails like you might have seen on TikTok, you’ll be disappointed. But there are still bargains to be had and ways to make your money go further:

• Sarandë and Ksamil are overpriced due to overwhelming demand, Himarë offers much better value for money in terms of accommodation, food and activities
• Dhermi is pricey because it’s more of a boutique destination, but the overall standard of hotels is higher than the other towns along the Riviera
• June and September offer the best combo for value for money, pleasant weather and fewer crowds
• May and October will be a lottttt cheaper and quieter, but many hotels, beach clubs and tour operators close outside of summer so you won’t get the full Riviera experience
• Minimise the amount of times you need to get cash out, ATM fees are €5-8 per withdrawal 😲
• Book early, demand is still well over supply in the Riviera so prices just go up and up. Last minute rates for hotels can get ridiculous!

What to budget for the Albanian Riviera

Prices in Sarandë and Ksamil are about what you’d expect in many Greek Islands, maybe not Santorini and Mykonos, but the popular but less glitzy options like Crete, Corfu and Rhodes.

The overall standard of hotels and food is nowhere near what you’d get in Greece for the same price too, so I think Greece offers better value for money than Sarandë and Ksamil.

Prices increase drastically every year so take any numbers (here or anywhere else) with a grain of salt, but here’s what the rates were like in September 2024:

• €50-70 for a basic 3* hotel
• €70-90 for a nice but not fancy 4* hotel
• €160-200 for a 5* resort
• €5-8 for happy hour cocktails at an affordable beach bar
• €10-20 for cocktails outside of happy hour
• €70-90 for a shared half day boat tour
• €5-10 for a casual meal
• €10-25 for a main meal at a nicer restaurant

Himarë is definitely more budget-friendly, accommodation seems to be 25-50% cheaper than the party towns for the same standard, but there are fewer upmarket options so they book out early. Restaurants, tours and shopping are all cheaper too.

Final verdict: Is the Albanian Riviera worth visiting?

The Albanian Riviera definitely has things going for it, but it’s not quite the cheap beach paradise it’s promoted as online. Here’s my honest on what makes the Riviera worth visiting, and what might make you think twice.

What’s good about it

• Insane water clarity and magical beaches away from the main towns (best explored by boat)
• Himarë has great value for money, Dhermi is perfect for something a little fancier
• Easy access to inland hot spots like Gjirokastër and Butrint National Park
• Traditional villages offer more authentic experiences
• Most tourism workers speak English well
• Easy ferry connection from Corfu
• Warm and pleasant weather from April/May to October

What’s not so good

• Very crowded in Sarandë and Ksamil, especially in July/August
• Prices rising drastically every summer
• Poor infrastructure that can’t handle the tourist numbers
• Not the safest or most comfortable place for solo female travellers
• Sub-optimal roads and driving conditions
• Expensive ATM fees
• Lower standard of accommodation and food for similar prices to Greece and Croatia
• Main beaches have been privatised and overrun with sun loungers

Whether the Albanian Riviera is worth it for you will really depend on your travel preferences, but I hope this honest and detailed Albanian Riviera travel guide has helped you come to a decision.

If you do end up going I would love to hear about your trip, this is a destination which is changing rapidly so if you have experienced something different to what I’ve shared then please let me (and your fellow readers) know in the comments below.

Regardless of whether you choose Albania or go elsewhere, I hope you have a brilliant time and stay safe!

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MY GO-TO TRAVEL PLANNING RESOURCES

Flights ✈️ I use Skyscanner to find the best flights for my trip and then I’ll always book direct with the airline to protect myself from having to deal with dodgy third parties if anything goes wrong.

Trains 🚂 If I’m travelling through Europe, I try to travel by train wherever possible! For an extended trip (2+ weeks) I’ll calculate if a Eurail Pass is worth it, or I’ll book point-to-point tickets through RailEurope or the local train operator.

Accommodation 🛎️ I book almost all of my accommodation through booking.com, they have a user-friendly website + app and many of their options are free cancellation, easily cancelled with a simple click of a button.

Activities 🗽I use GetYourGuide, Klook and Viator to look for activities in the places I visit, or I just Google ‘things to do in [city]’! P.S. If you book anything on Klook you can use the promocode FINDINGALEXXKLOOK to get 10% off

Travel cards 💳 I’m a Wise gal through and through, they’ve been my chosen travel card for more than five years now. You can easily top up your card from your bank account or through Apple Pay, convert your money to local currency, and spend money with minimal fees and the best exchange rates around.

Travel insurance 🩺 I use Cover-More NZ travel insurance for my own trips, I have a comprehensive policy and I’ve only had good experiences with them. Cover-More also has an Australian company, but if you’re from elsewhere then two popular insurance options for global travellers are SafetyWing (cheaper policy, lower coverage) and World Nomads (more expensive but significantly better coverage).

Luggage 💼 I travel with Samsonite Cosmolite suitcases, one 75cm check in bag and a 55cm carry on bag, and I absolutely adore them and will never travel with anything else! They are SUPER lightweight (2.8kg and 1.9kg respectively) so I have much more space for my actual stuff.

Camera gear 📸 I use a iPhone 15 Pro Max for phone photos/videos, and my camera kit includes a Lumix S9 (incredible lightweight full-frame camera, a game changer for travel creators!) with a 20-60mm lens, a Lumix G9 with an 8-18mm and 12-60mm lens, a DJI Mini 3 Pro drone and a GoPro Hero 10. I do all my writing and editing on my ASUS Zenbook 14, it’s lightweight but powerful enough for photo editing and intense blogging sessions.