Are you planning a trip to Scotland and considering taking the Caledonian Sleeper train? If you’re wondering “is the Caledonian Sleeper worth it?” then look no further, here’s a detailed Caledonian Sleeper review from my trip from London to Edinburgh, as well as some handy tips to ensure you have the best journey.
After spending two months in Europe travelling by train (for the second year in a row), I still had a couple of travel days left on my Eurail Pass to be able to use during my month the UK. The Caledonian Sleeper is renowned for being one of the UK’s top bucket list train journeys, so I decided to take a weekend getaway to Edinburgh.
With a late night departure from London and an early morning arrival in Edinburgh, it was a comfortable and stress-free way to make the journey, as well as being better for the environment and letting us avoid the nightmares of a London airport on a weekend during the Christmas period.
This Caledonian Sleeper review has literally all you need to know about the overnight train to Scotland to help you decide if it’s worth the money and the time. In this post I explain the Caledonian Sleeper routes, the current timetable, pricing for seats and cabins, how you can get a discount, what it’s like to sleep on the train and more.
So is the Caledonian Sleeper worth it? Read on to find out!
A quick summary: Is the Caledonian Sleeper worth it?
The answer to this question will depend on your budget, your timeframe and your travel preferences.
The Caledonian Sleeper is probably worth it for you if:
- You want a convenient and comfortable trip
- You hate flying
- You’re trying to reduce your carbon footprint
- You’d have to spend money on accommodation in London or Scotland if you took daytime transport
- You have a Eurail or Interrail Pass
- You’re travelling with big suitcases
- You don’t mind a small (but comfortable) cabin for the night
- You’re travelling with pets
On the other hand, the train might not be worth it for you if:
- There are budget flights available for cheaper (remember to take into account the cost of getting to and from the airport + adding luggage)
- You have free accommodation in London and/or Scotland
- You need a proper bed for a good night’s sleep
- You’re claustrophobic or aren’t comfortable in tight spaces
- You’re tall!
- You’re taking a solo trip to Edinburgh (it’s significantly cheaper per person if you share a cabin with a friend or partner)
Caledonian Sleeper quick links
- Buy Caledonian Sleeper tickets at www.sleeper.scot (if you have a Eurail/Interrail Pass you can tick the ‘room supplement only’ box)
- Buy a Eurail Pass or Interrail Pass
- Buy a UK Railcard (a discount card for train travel, not the same as a Eurail/Interrail Pass)
- My top hotel recommendation in Edinburgh is Roomzzz, they offer literally the best value accommodation in the city. A few minutes’ walk from Waverley Station, spacious rooms with kitchen facilities, comfortable beds and fantastic staff. So good that we cancelled our booking at a fancy hotel to extend our stay because we didn’t want to leave!
- I have a few accommodation recommendations in London, I love Room2 Chiswick for an eco-friendly boutique stay or if you need to be on the other side of town then Wilde Aldgate Tower Bridge is fantastic
- If you’re planning an extended European train adventure, my Eurail Pass guide will help you make the most of your time and money
- My sleeper train must-haves are this eye mask, these silicone ear plugs, a good pair of noise-cancelling headphones, some melatonin to help with sleep and a Kindle for entertainment
What is the Caledonian Sleeper?
Combining the nostalgia and charm of 19th century rail travel with modern technologies and fancy amenities, the Caledonian Sleeper is an iconic part of the UK’s train network.
It’s one of the oldest continuously-operating sleeper services in the world, tracing its roots back to 1873, but the Caledonian Sleeper has constantly evolved with society’s changing transportation needs and technological advancements. The most recent significant upgrade to the train was the arrival of brand new carriages in 2019.
With the ever-growing network of budget airlines (and the unfortunate fact that rail travel in the UK is costly), it’s no longer the cheapest or easiest way to get to between London and Scotland, but it still offers a timeless travel experience that really embodies the whole “it’s the journey, not the destination” mantra.
(And when you take into consideration the savings on accommodation in either London or Scotland, it actually might end up being cheaper than an EasyJet flight!).
The service caters to a wide range of passengers, from budget backpackers just looking for a cheap seat to business travellers to luxury tourists, with different levels of accommodation depending on your needs and budget. There are top-end rooms with access to the famous Club Car if you want to experience the Caledonian Sleeper at its best, the ‘classic’ option offers a comfortable private sleeper cabin with shared bathroom facilities, or there are affordable reclining seats for those on a tighter budget.
Is the Caledonian Sleeper worth it for the views?
I have to be honest, our particular trip had very little in terms of views, because we were only on the London to Edinburgh route which left at 11.45pm and arrived at 7.30am. We travelled in November and the sunrise in Edinburgh was 7.40am, so we only had a tiny bit of daylight at the very end of our trip.
But from reading other reviews and speaking to the Caledonian Sleeper team, the views are magical in the summer months where there’s longer daylight hours, and on the routes that go further into the Scottish Highlands so run until later in the morning. The London to Fort William route is meant to be particularly stunning, and the latter part of that trip (along the West Highland Line) is often listed as one of the most beautiful train rides in Europe.
Travelling north is certainly the more scenic direction, with rugged and wild Scottish landscapes providing a stark contrast to what you saw in London the night before. I’d recommend getting up early to get the best bang for your buck in terms of views!
Where does the Caledonian Sleeper start and finish?
There are five Caledonian Sleeper routes.
London to Edinburgh via Watford Junction and Carlisle
London to Glasgow via Watford Junction, Carlisle, Carstairs and Matherwell
London to Inverness via Stirling, Gleneagles, Perth, Pitlochry and Aviemore
London to Aberdeen via Kirkcaldy, Leuchars (for St Andrews), Dundee, Carnoustie and Arbroath
London to Fort William via Dumbarton, Helensburgh Upper and all West Highland Line stations
How often does the Caledonian Sleeper run?
The Caledonian Sleeper runs one train on each route every night of the week, except Saturdays.
The Caledonian Sleeper timetable
Train timetables can change without notice, so please check the official Caledonian Sleeper timetable for current timings.
The timetable below is correct as of 30 January 2023.
London > Glasgow
Monday-Friday: Depart London 23.45, arrive Glasgow 7.30
Sunday: Depart London 23.30, arrive Glasgow 7.30
Glasgow > London
Monday-Friday: Depart Glasgow 23.40, arrive London 7.15
Sunday: Depart Glasgow 23.15, arrive London 7.15
London > Edinburgh
Monday-Friday: Depart London 23.45, arrive Edinburgh 7.30
Sunday: Depart London 23.30, arrive Edinburgh 7.30
Edinburgh > London
Monday-Friday: Depart Edinburgh 23.40, arrive London 7.15
Sunday: Depart Edinburgh 23.15, arrive London 7.15
London > Inverness
Monday-Friday: Depart London 21.15, arrive Inverness 8.45
Sunday: Depart London 21.00, arrive Inverness 8.45
Inverness > London
Monday-Friday: Depart Inverness 20.45, arrive London 8.00
Sunday: Depart Inverness 20.25, arrive London 8.00
London > Aberdeen
Monday-Friday: Depart London 21.15, arrive Aberdeen 7.40
Sunday: Depart London 21.00, arrive Aberdeen 7.40
Aberdeen > London
Monday-Friday: Depart Aberdeen 21.43, arrive London 8.00
Sunday: Depart Aberdeen 21.43, arrive London 8.00
London > Fort William
Monday-Friday: Depart London 21.15, arrive Fort William 10.00
Sunday: Depart London 21.00, arrive Fort William 10.00
Fort William > London
Monday-Friday: Depart Fort William 19.50, arrive London 8.00
Sunday: Depart Fort William 19.00, arrive London 8.00
Can you do a day trip with the Caledonian Sleeper?
Technically it would be an overnight trip because you depart before midnight, but you can definitely do one day in Edinburgh or any of the other stops with the Caledonian Sleeper.
Let’s look at Edinburgh as an example.
Take the Caledonian Sleeper from London in the late evening and arrive in Edinburgh at 7.30am. From here you’ve got an entire day to explore Edinburgh, then you can either catch a normal train home (they run 2-3 times an hour throughout the day until 9pm-ish), or you could book the return Caledonian Sleeper back to London overnight instead.
What do Caledonian Sleeper tickets cost?
Caledonian Sleeper tickets are priced dynamically like airline tickets, meaning the price will depend on the demand for that seat. Prices also depend on the route you’re taking (with the longer routes obviously costing more), and the starting price is more expensive in the summer months.
Here are the typical price ranges for the different routes and room types ⬇️
Prices valid as of 31 January 2024 but these are subject to change, check the Caledonian Sleeper website for up-to-date pricing.
London <> Glasgow:
Seat only: £50-£90 per person
Classic room, one person: £190-£250
Classic room, two people: £240-£320
Club en-suite, one person: £225-£325
Club en-suite, two people: £320-£390
Caledonian Double en-suite, one person: £360
Caledonian Double en-suite, two people: £425
London <> Edinburgh:
Seat only: £50-£90 per person
Classic room, one person: £190-£250
Classic room, two people: £240-£320
Club en-suite, one person: £250-£340
Club en-suite, two people: £320-£405
Caledonian Double en-suite, one person: £360
Caledonian Double en-suite, two people: £425
London <> Inverness:
Seat only: £55-£95 per person
Classic room, one person: £195-£285
Classic room, two people: £245-£355
Club en-suite, one person: £270-£400
Club en-suite, two people: £330-£470
Caledonian Double en-suite, one person: £425
Caledonian Double en-suite, two people: £500
London <> Aberdeen:
Seat only: £55-£95 per person
Classic room, one person: £195-£285
Classic room, two people: £280-£355
Club en-suite, one person: £270-£400
Club en-suite, two people: £380-£470
Caledonian Double en-suite, one person: £425
Caledonian Double en-suite, two people: £500
London <> Fort William:
Seat only: £55-£95 per person
Classic room, one person: £195-£285
Classic room, two people: £245-£355
Club en-suite, one person: £270-£400
Club en-suite, two people: £330-£470
Caledonian Double en-suite, one person: £425
Caledonian Double en-suite, two people: £500
Tips for getting the cheapest Caledonian Sleeper tickets
- Book in advance, prices are based on demand so last minute bookings or leaving it too late for busy periods will often result in having to pay the highest fare.
- Travel mid-week if you can, Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays typically have lower demand.
- Travel in the off season. Summer starting prices are higher, so the cheapest fares in July/August will be higher than the cheapest fares in October/November.
- Kids under 5 go free when sharing a seat or room with an adult, maximum of one kid aged 0-4 per adult
- Kids aged 5-15 are slightly cheaper than adult tickets
Can you get a discount on Caledonian Sleeper tickets?
You sure can! There are a few ways to get discounts on Caledonian Sleeper tickets.
With a Railcard
A Railcard is a discount card that gives you up to 1/3 off most train tickets in the UK. If you live in the UK and are eligible for one then they are absolutely worth getting, you’ll make your money back in just a few short trips or even one long trip.
But unfortunately the Caledonian Sleeper doesn’t accept all Railcards and you won’t get a discount on all seat/room options. Here’s the full list of the Railcard discounts you can get on the Caledonian Sleeper:
- 16-25 Railcard – up to 34% off your seat or a solo Classic or Club room
- Senior Railcard – up to 34% off your seat or a solo Classic or Club room
- Veterans Railcard – up to 34% off your seat or a solo Classic or Club room
- Family & Friends Railcard – up to 34% off adults and up to 81% off for kids, seats only
- Disabled Persons Railcard – up to 34% off for the Railcard holder and a companion in seats, Club rooms or Classic rooms
- Two Together Railcard – up to 34% off seats
- There are no Railcard discounts for Caledonian Double rooms and no discounts for two people in a room (even if both people have a Railcard) except for Disabled Railcard holders and their companion.
- There are no discounts for a 16-17 Saver or a 26-30 Railcard
You can check if you’re eligible and buy a Railcard here >>
With a Eurail/Interrail/BritRail Pass/All Line Rover
If you’ve got a European rail pass like a Eurail Global Pass or Interrail Global Pass, or a local rail pass like BritRail or an All Line Rover pass, these cover the cost of your ticket, so you’ll just need to pay a separate room supplement to reserve your spot.
If you have a 2nd class rail pass, the supplement is £145 for one person in a Classic room or £165 for two people in a Classic room.
If you have a 1st class rail pass then you can book the Club rooms, you’ll need to pay £195 for one person in a Club room or £225 for two people in a Club room.
If you’re booking for two people, both passengers need to have a valid rail pass.
You can’t use a rail pass to book the Caledonian Double room unfortunately.
You’ll need to compare the cost of the full ticket vs. the cost of the room supplement to see if it’s worth using a rail pass travel day.
For example, if you’re a single traveller travelling from London to Edinburgh wanting a Classic room booking well in advance, then a full ticket might be £190, meaning you’d only save £45 if you booked the room supplement for £145. If you have other, more expensive train journeys during your travels then the rail pass might be better used on them.
Alternatively, if you’re two people travelling on one of the longer routes with first class passes wanting a Club room for two and booking quite last minute, the full ticket price could be as high as £470. Using a rail pass travel day you’d only pay the room supplement of £225, saving you a whopping £245. Well worth it!
No idea what I’m talking about? Here’s all you need to know about Eurail Passes and I’ve also got a really detailed blog to help you figure out if a Eurail pass is worth it.
How do you buy Caledonian Sleeper tickets?
You can book Caledonian Sleeper tickets on the official website, www.sleeper.scot.
If you just want to book a room supplement, you can do that on the same website and just tick the ‘room supplement only’ box in the search box.
Caledonian Sleeper seats vs. cabins
If you’re on a tight budget, the seats on the Caledonian Sleeper are a much cheaper way to get from A to B and save on a night of accommodation, but don’t expect much more than the basics.
The seats are clean and comfortable as far as train seats go, but they only recline 10 degrees. There’s an adjustable headrest and adjustable footrest too.
The seat in front has a tray table that folds out if you need to work, but it’s not sturdy enough to lean on to sleep without annoying the person sitting in front of you.
There’s a food and drink menu (seated customers don’t get access to the Club Car like the rooms do but the food options are the same, except for a few cooked breakfast dishes) and keep in mind that the interior lights are on the whole night, so you’ll want to use the complimentary eye mask or bring your own.
If you really need to sleep on this trip, like if you’re travelling for business or just don’t want to be exhausted when you arrive at your next destination, I’d really recommend booking a room for a more relaxing journey.
Caledonian Sleeper Classic cabins vs. Club cabins vs. Caledonian Doubles
Classic rooms
The Caledonian Sleeper Classic rooms are simple but very nicely done, with twin bunks with Glencraft mattresses (a luxury Scottish brand), an in-room washbasin, charging points, WiFi, keycard entry, temperature control, dimmable lights and room service. Breakfast is available for purchase.
Bathroom facilities are shared with other Classic rooms, and Classic rooms have access to the Club Car for food and drink (though Club rooms get priority access)
The beds are the same size in both Classic and Club rooms, 65cm x 180xm, and the room size of both is 134.5cm x 180cm.
Club rooms
A club room is the same cabin layout but offering amenities that are a step above Classic, with included breakfast, an en-suite with toilet and shower (additional to the room size mentioned above), Arran Sense of Scotland toiletries and some welcome chocolate from Mackie’s of Scotland (absolutely delicious by the way!).
Club room guests get access to the Station Lounge in London Euston which only opened late 2023, as well as priority boarding and priority access to the Club Car for food and drink.
Caledonian Doubles
The most exclusive room available on the Caledonian Sleeper, the Caledonian Double is the ultimate in sleeper train luxury, but you’ll need to book them well in advance as they get filled up early. You’ll get all the same amenities as the Club rooms but with a premium double bed, a souvenir toilet bag and more space to spread out.
Accessible rooms
If you have accessibility needs there are dedicated accessible cabins available for booking through the website or over the phone. These rooms are spacious and wheelchair-friendly, with either a double bed or two single bunk beds, a lower sink, larger table, two emergency alarms, an accessible toilet right outside.
What is the Caledonian Sleeper food like?
The Caledonian Sleeper is an icon of Scottish heritage, and that certainly comes across in the food and drinks menu, with things like haggis, neeps and tatties, and loads of whiskey on offer.
If you’ve booked a room then you can either opt for room service or head to the Club Car to eat, and seated tickets can order from the seat carriage train attendants.
Dinner dishes include light starters, haggis, pork fillet, mac & cheese, light bites like nachos, toasted sandwiches, savoury snacks and desserts, with a decent list of wine, whiskey and other drinks.
For breakfast, Classic and seated guests can choose from porridge, a bacon roll, a sausage roll, vegan sausage roll or granola and yoghurt. Caledonian Double and Club guests have a few more options, like a traditional Scottish breakfast, Scottish fish frittata or a traditional vegan breakfast, and breakfast is included in their ticket.
Mum got the traditional Scottish breakfast and I got the traditional vegan breakfast (just so we got different things), I’d say it was a step above plane food but wasn’t particularly inspiring.
One thing I will say is to read the instructions clearly on the breakfast menu that you tick and place on your door handle before going to bed. After getting onto the train exhausted at 11pm we ticked our options with our chosen time of 7am for breakfast, without reading properly and realising that the hot breakfast was only served in the Club Car. About 15 minutes before arriving in Edinburgh I was wondering why our breakfast hadn’t arrived yet, checked with a train attendant and was told we needed to go to the Club Car. We boosted down there and had to chow down our food quickly in order to get back to our room to pack in time to leave the train. This also meant that I missed the only daylight of our trip, and the arrival into Edinburgh is meant to be quite scenic.
Our own fault of course but I think it could be made clearer, at least now you know to keep this in mind!
What’s the Caledonian Sleeper service like?
We experienced friendly and helpful service throughout our Caledonian Sleeper experience, from the friendly lounge staff to helpful train attendants and lovely waitstaff in the Club Car.
We also had a bit of a mishap with a bag that was left in our cabin (it was my mum, not me!) and didn’t realise until we’d checked in to our Edinburgh hotel and the train had left the station for the day. After speaking to their live chat team the bag was found and brought back to the station before the evening service departed, where we could pick it up. Overall everyone we spoke to was super helpful, despite it being totally our (/mum’s) fault and no doubt an annoying thing for them to deal with.
The final verdict: Is the Caledonian Sleeper worth it?
For me personally, the Caledonian Sleeper was worth it and I’d definitely choose it again over booking a flight.
As a full-time traveller my carbon footprint is constantly on my mind, and I opt for train travel wherever possible to try and reduce my impact. I also just haaate flying, I hate lugging my suitcases across the city to get to the airport and then faffing around once I’m there, spending ridiculous amounts on shitty airport food, being crammed in to a flying tin can and inevitably splurging on an airport taxi because by the time I arrive I can’t be bothered dealing with public transport to get to my hotel. No thanks. Get me on a train that leaves and arrives at a central location, without the need to check bags, go through security or be crammed into a middle seat with no leg room.
The Caledonian Sleeper is a brilliantly convenient way to reach Edinburgh or the other Scottish arrival points, with the added bonus of being a bit of fun too.
It might not seem like the cheapest option, but when you take into account flight prices + luggage + airport transfer + a night of accommodation, it’s probably not too far off!
Of all the sleeper trains I’ve been on (Thailand, Finland, Norway, Sweden, France, Austria and Germany) this one was the cleanest and most comfortable by a significant stretch.
Other Caledonian Sleeper reviews
I do have to say that after reading Caledonian Sleeper reviews on TripAdvisor I was a bit apprehensive, so I want to briefly address a few commonly mentioned issues here.
First of all, TripAdvisor doesn’t distinguish between seat reviews and cabin reviews, and many of the bad reviews are for the seated carriage mentioning things I’ve told you about above, like the minimum recline, lights on all night, etc. If you’re looking for a good night’s sleep but can’t afford a cabin, book a flight or a day train and sleep in a hotel.
Secondly, quite a few reviews mention the small rooms, small toilet/shower and small beds. Perhaps these people have just never travelled on a sleeper train before, but I didn’t think the rooms were much (if any) smaller than previous sleeper trains I’ve been on. The beds were by farrrr the most comfortable I’ve ever had on a night train.
They definitely aren’t spacious, there’s not much room for luggage (smaller bags will fit under the bed but my big suitcase was too deep) and it certainly wouldn’t be ideal for a bigger body, but I think this is more about managing expectations rather than the product being different from what you were sold as the room size is clearly mentioned on the website.
And finally, there does seem to be an ongoing issue with water on the train. We didn’t have a problem with this on our trip but reading recent reviews it’s clear that there have been a number of situations where carriages have either run out of hot water or have had water problems in general, meaning people need to go to another carriage to use the bathroom. If does happen on your train, I’d recommend getting in touch with the Caledonian Sleeper crew immediately to request a partial refund.
I hope this detailed Caledonian Sleeper review and travel guide has helped you plan your London to Scotland (or vice versa) trip. If you have any questions you can reach out to the Caledonian Sleeper team or let me know in the comments below and I’ll try help where I can.
Disclosure: I was kindly hosted by the Caledonian Sleeper during my time in the UK, but as always my review is completely honest and is based on my personal experience.
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Paul says
Very thorough and fair review.
I took the Caledonian Sleeper about five years ago, shortly after lockdown ended, and opted for a Club Room. My experience was not so great. I haven’t done a lot of sleeper cars, so I have less experience than you to compare. Still:
– The Club Car was closed due to a staffing shortage, so my breakfast was a stale plastic-wrapped croissant, a tiny cup of orange juice, and a breakfast granola bar.
– I prefer to sleep in the top bunk, and I found that getting in and out of the top bunk was extremely difficult. It took me a good 15 minutes to work out how to get down safely. At one point I considered tossing the pillows and blankets on to the floor and just hurling myself down to the floor.
– The small window and the layout of the couch made it difficult to see out the window during the trip.
– I found the staff pretty disinterested and glum; maybe it’s because they were short staffed, but still I expect a certain level of friendliness from sleeper car staff, and it was absent.
– The public address system wasn’t working, so I couldn’t hear any announcements of stops.
– We arrived into Fort William two hours late, with no explanation
That said, the beds were, as you say, very comfortable. I’m tall, and still managed to fit. Also, as you say, it’s very clean and feels new — nothing is worn down or tired looking. And the ride is smooth.
So for people looking for a different travel experience from flying, or from a regular overnight train seat, I’d still encourage them to give it a try.